WL: Another Turbo Dodge

[turbodaytona87]

I picked up an 87 Dodge Daytona Pacifica from someone on the boards last year. Needless to say it needed some work. The exhaust needed to be put on (it was running open turbo), the power steering line leaked, and the oil feed to the turbo leaked as well. We got that all fixed, many thanks to supercrackerbox for the help:bow:. I drove it around for a few months until an adapter we used for the oil distribution block broke and sprayed oil all over Hwy 2 and causing some great rod knock. Then it sat in my driveway for a little bit while I gathered parts to rebuild it bigger and better. Halfway through I weighed my options between keeping it and trying to upgrade parts that needed to be to handle some more power as well as trying to deal with some rust, or finding a shell in better shape. Well I found another 87 Dodge Daytona up in O'Niell. It only had about 100k on the clock and was recently repainted. As you can see from the video it still purred like it just left the factory, despite the miles. I have decided to put in a rebuilt engine with some minor upgrades.

It has:
2 Piece Intake
3" Swingvalve and mandrel bent exhaust
Boost Controller set at 14.7 psi
TII Rods and pistons(I started building an 86 TI engine block to TII specs)
A555 Manual Trans
FMIC

Here it is before we picked it up:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/daytonaside.jpg

Here it is on the trailer:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/DaytonaTrailer.jpg

Here it is sitting in my garage awaiting a new engine:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/WorkLogPictures001-erased.jpg

More updates after work tomorrow

[BOORAH]

Garage pic no worky. How much did that run ya?

[spoonraker]

Not a bad lookin car, can't wait to see what you do with it.

[turbodaytona87]

I picked it up for $850, yeah it was getting late and I had to work this morning so I just posted up what I had, I'll try to get the picture and video up now. Also the part that says what it has, should have said "it will have".

[turbodaytona87]

And here is a video of it running:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/th_WorkLogPictures003.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/?action=view&current=WorkLogPictures003.flv)

[Mr. Jeff]

those cars are sooooo ugly but damn sexy at the same time. what is it about them? do an srt4 swap

[turbodaytona87]

I wish I had the cash to do an srt-4 swap. But compared to a stock srt-4 it should have about the same power, just weighs slightly more. In that video you can clearly tell that the current engine has rod knock, hence why I am building the new engine.

[86Shelby]

Not bad for 850 bucks! I'm glad my bro pointed that out to me and the info got your way. If ya need a hand LMK.

[turbodaytona87]

I'm glad he did too! It was perfect timing too, I had just happened to ask him about another shell so I didn't have to deal with rust repair(I could hear the car cracking when jacking up one side) month later went and picked it up. I'll try to post my white daytona sometime too

[turbodaytona87]

Took off the front motor mount today to find out that it has at least a front poly bushing, now to check the sides :D

[turbodaytona87]

Engine has been pulled:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_2015.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_2016.jpg

[supercrackerbox]

Wow, you're doing it the hard way. Buy (or borrow) a load leveler, and pull and re-install the engine and transmission at the same time. Trust me, it's SOOO much easier.

[86Shelby]

Definitely pull the trans out and install them at the same time. Adam has done it the hard way, like you are, a time or two and has scary stories.:ohnoes:

[turbodaytona87]

Transmission and suspension stuff scares me:ohnoes:

[supercrackerbox]

It's cake, really. If you don't have one, go pick up a 32mm axle nut socket at O'Reilly's.

Place car on jack stands, remove front wheels. Remove the pin, cap, and wave washer from the axle end. Remove the axle nut (if you have an impact gun, great, otherwise shove an old head bolt or large screwdriver in the vanes of the brake rotor so it stops on the caliper). Remove ball joint pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering knuckle {15mm deep socket, 18mm box end}. Remove sway bar end link under control arm{13mm deep socket, 13mm box end}. Repeat all that for the other side. Swing the sway bar down and out of the way. Pry the control arm down to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle (this gets so much easier on '89-up cars). Get a drain pan under the transmission where the axle plugs in. Hold the axle in place with one hand, and swing the strut/knuckle assembly outwards to remove the axle from the knuckle. Remove axle. Repeat for other side, install is reverse of removal. When you put this all back together, tighten the axle nuts to 180lb.ft. Failure to do so will smoke your wheel bearings.

To remove the trans from your current point: Disconnect clutch cable. To do this, push the clutch arm down to extend the cable, hold the cable in place with your other hand, and release the arm. Pull the metal retainer clip an rubber damper off the end of the cable, and pull it all off the tranny. Disconnect the shifter cable ENDS from the transmission. Unbolt the cable bracket from the transmission {13mm} and swing the assembly out of the way. Remove the bobble strut-to-Kmember bolt {15mm}. Remove transmission mounting bolt through the access hole in the driver's wheel well. Use a deep socket and/or a locking extension- if you lose your socket in that hole you'll never see it again. Lower floor jack.

[86Shelby]

You'll still need to remove at least 1 axle taking just the tranny out, but I'd recommend doing both. I ain't skurred of some axles. We can take that trans out in 30 minutes if we're lazy and take our time.

[turbodaytona87]

After I get the engine ready to go in, want to help me with that?:D

[86Shelby]

Sure.

[turbodaytona87]

Trying to get this stupid braided oil line situation figured out as well as an oil galley plug that is missing(found that out after I was priming it and oil rushed out of the block :( ) Hopefully engine will be back in this weekend and driving around. Gotta learn to drive a manual pretty quick for the break-in though:D

[supercrackerbox]

Don't worry, once you get the hang of it, you'll realize how boring automatics are.

What's the situation with the oil lines?

[turbodaytona87]

Trying to go from the factory 1/4 tube fitting to an 1/8 pipe fitting for the braided line, Ray is gonna hook me up though, just have to head up there (hadn't been feeling well past couple of days). Otherwise its mostly done, big things to get the engine back in are: priming, set timing, a/c bracket, finish turbo water lines, weld in O2 bungs in swingvalve.

[turbodaytona87]

January 14
I removed the intermediate shaft/halfshaft combo to replace it with a single long axle. The bearing that supported the intermediate shaft was worn and the shaft was rubbing on the lower control arm. After tearing it apart, I found out it really isn't that difficult:). In the picture below you can see the shiny new black axle:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild001.jpg

[turbodaytona87]

January 15th

Finally got to working on putting the new engine in. I decided, against popular belief, to not pull the tranny and then install the engine/tranny combo. Honestly this was probably a better decision as it really didn't take too long to get it in.

Here it is before it went in:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild002.jpg

Backside:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild003.jpg

In Position:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild006.jpg

Finally Its In:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild007.jpg

[turbodaytona87]

Now I just have to put everything back on, pulleys, wires, alternator, PS pump, motor mounts. Then do the exhaust, 3" side exit and run the 2.5" intercooler piping and mount the intercooler.

[supercrackerbox]

Boy I miss the extra room in a G-body engine bay. BTW, if you're still running the stock IC, everything is 2.25". 2" off the turbo snout.

[supercrackerbox]

Did you put your AC compressor on before the alternator?

[turbodaytona87]

I have a FMIC to go in there and I have some reducers for the intercooler and turbo outlet. And that A/C compressor is just chilling there to take the stress off the lines.

Not the best pictures/intercooler but it gets the job done:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/Rebuild008.jpg

[86Shelby]

Looks good. How much clearance does the exhaust have from the k-frame? Seems like it's aimed right at the steering rack. :joe:

[turbodaytona87]

Haha yeah I noticed that after I put the engine in, I'll see if I can get a picture of it. My downpipe will be more of a straight pipe :D

[turbodaytona87]

Here is a video of the Daytona running, still have to put on valve cover (was just sitting there while I checked to make sure the car started without issues), exhaust, coolant lines, intercooler, and accessories.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/th_CarRunningsmaller.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/?action=view&current=CarRunningsmaller.flv)

[srt-4_uk]

That has to suck if you want to swap the turbo. That thing is way back there.

[turbodaytona87]

Yeah the head/manifolds pretty much have to come off to replace the turbo.

[supercrackerbox]

On the old log style setup (like your old car) you can swap it without pulling the head, but on the later style not so much.

[turbodaytona87]

You can with a two piece too right? Just take the top part off or something.

[supercrackerbox]

Some say yes, some say no. I really don't see much difference, because the lower half still sticks out so far.

[86Shelby]

You can with a two piece too right? Just take the top part off or something.

HAHAHA:rofl: HAHAHAHA:rofl:

Nope, you have to pull the head & manifolds.

[turbodaytona87]

damn, good thing I don't plan on changing the turbo anytime soon :D Adam how old is that turbo that you gave/sold Nick for that white daytona?

[supercrackerbox]

Gave would be it, cuz he never did end up giving me anything for it . . . :joe:

It had right about 186,000 miles on it. Switched back and forth between regular and synthetic oil during the last 100K depending on my budget, don't know what the previous owner ran in it.

[turbodaytona87]

:( Dang that's not too encouraging...well it seems to boost fine for now:D

[supercrackerbox]

Meh, the shaft was still tight and spun smoothly, that's the biggest issue. Those Garrets will last forever. Heck, the one on Ray's Omni has to be around 250K by now.

Besides, that turbo won't really work for this car anyway, what are you worried about?

[turbodaytona87]

Meh, the shaft was still tight and spun smoothly, that's the biggest issue. Those Garrets will last forever. Heck, the one on Ray's Omni has to be around 250K by now.

Besides, that turbo won't really work for this car anyway, what are you worried about?

Haha it will now :D I changed exhaust housings to a .48 ported/coated one and the compressor housing from the TII, because that other turbo was just stuck, like I couldn't get it to free spin more than a 1/4 turn, and there were shavings in the coolant return(or feed, whichever one goes into the back of the block)

[supercrackerbox]

Eww, yeah, that turbo's smoked. PO probably drove it for a while even with the rod knock, that'll kill the turbo every time.

Do yourself a favor and order one of those filters from Turbos Unleashed.

[turbodaytona87]

I might have to. The PO told me that the guy before him got the rod knock, then just half assed it by replacing the bearings and then it spun again while he had it.

[supercrackerbox]

Common mistake.

[turbodaytona87]

Little update, car is 98-99% done, just have to put on the alternator/waterpump belt and one clamp on the intercooler piping. Oh and finish the exhaust, right now its just a shorty down pipe. Should have some pics and maybe videos tomorrow after we break it in.

[turbodaytona87]

Took it for a break-in drive today, pulled decently for 6psi until pipes blew off, I think I got them all tightened down now tho

[86Shelby]

Took it for a break-in drive today, pulled decently for 6psi until pipes blew off, I think I got them all tightened down now tho

Blown pipes suck, don't they. Great to hear that it's up & running now!:woot:

[turbodaytona87]

Took it for a break-in drive today, pulled decently for 6psi until pipes blew off, I think I got them all tightened down now tho

Blown pipes suck, don't they. Great to hear that it's up & running now!:woot:

It did suck. Should be running 14.7 psi later this week, gotta get a high idle figured out and make sure timing is right, I think the ignition timing is retarded a little.

[Thunder]

wanna race?

[86Shelby]

wanna race?

:joe: Come on man, that's like taking a Daisy to a Smith & Wesson shootout. Let him get some fuel & boost.

[turbodaytona87]

I ran it up to 14psi, it put a smile on my face:D

[Thunder]

sounds like you wanna race.

[turbodaytona87]

Eh maybe, just for the fun of it, I have no intention of winning, I just learned to drive a manual thursday. How fast are you running now anyway?

[supercrackerbox]

Just keep a real close eye on your fuel running that high. One little ping will smoke that engine.

[Thunder]

i just wanna race something. I roll raced Ray yesterday and Beans again.

[turbodaytona87]

Just keep a real close eye on your fuel running that high. One little ping will smoke that engine.

I will, it has a O2 gauge(just a narrowband I know) but at wot it seems fine.

[turbodaytona87]

Isn't stock on a TII 12 psi, so 2psi shouldn't be too big of a deal should it. Its running around at 10psi right now until I get some timing issues figured out, evidently I just suck at timing these things

[supercrackerbox]

The point is, the MAP only reads to 14.7psi, at which point you are walking a very fine line. Once you cross that threshold, you are on your own as the computer can't control past there. Yes, the overboost cutout *should* kick in right there, but any hiccup in your fuel system will destroy it. Keep in mind that your injectors are 21 years old, unless you've replaced them, as is your fuel pressure regulator. Have you upgraded your fuel pump?

[turbodaytona87]

Fuel pump hasn't been upgraded yet, but it has been replaced. I am thinking about putting on my AFRP but it seems that my intake is stuck together, its more of a one piece intake right now:D(Yes I did remove the bolts). I will put in some +40s once I have the money for them, 3bar map and a cal.

[supercrackerbox]

Yeah, that plenum doesn't come off easily, you might have to persuade it with a rubber mallet. Just make sure you can track down a replacement gasket for it first. Generally it's a lot easier to just take off the valve cover.

[turbodaytona87]

Oh I thought the top was hanging over it or something, am I correct in assuming that with an intake gasket kit from a parts store has the correct gasket? It came with a 4 hole gasket that I thought was for the intake.

[86Shelby]

They come with almost every gasket kit. It is easier to take the valve cover off for more room. I won't lie, it sucks to remove the fuel rail & everything. I would rather **** with that than try to get all the bolts out of the intake with it still in the car.

[turbodaytona87]

I think I'm going to fix my boost issues first :( 5psi just doesn't get that thing moving at all, well compared to not running boost at all it does. Probably swap the AFPR in with the injectors so I only have to do it once. BTW any of you TD guys have a power steering pump?

[turbodaytona87]

Here is a video of it, I'll try to get some better ones tomorrow, we were mainly trying to get the BOV sound since someone asked me for it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/th_2nd.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/?action=view&current=2nd.flv)

[Thunder]

that looks way too fast for the ls1, i withdraw my challenge to race.

[turbodaytona87]

Trust me its not, right now the wastegate arm is getting stuck on the intake so not only does it only make 5psi it also makes it slowly, I don't get boost unless I am up in the rpm range, it starts building around 3k when it should be fully spooled by then

[turbodaytona87]

Well the tires just could not handle all this power I am making and it completely shredded one, so I am now looking for a 205/50/15 tire if anyone has one laying around. Pics of the brutal beating to come tomorrow...

[turbodaytona87]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/failtona1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/failtona2.jpg

[angrysk8r]

hahaha

[supercrackerbox]

205/50/15? That car should have 225/50/15s factory, or at very least run a 205/60/15. Your speedo is going to be off a bit running that size.

[srt-4_uk]

Plus the bigger tires will help with traction. That pic is sad to see.

[supercrackerbox]

Yeah, especially with that gearing. I have the exact same drivetrain in my car with 205/60's (225s are just too expensive for a beater) and I'm running 3500 RPM at 80mph on the interstate. I miss my 520 tranny, it was so much nicer on the highway.

[turbodaytona87]

205/50/15? That car should have 225/50/15s factory, or at very least run a 205/60/15. Your speedo is going to be off a bit running that size.

Good to know, I'll check it again to make sure I read it right.

Tire rack says 205/60/15 is original, I might have said it wrong earlier it does have 205/60/15's

[turbodaytona87]

Plus the bigger tires will help with traction. That pic is sad to see.

Yeah the whole 'power tore them apart' thing was just a joke, that tire was actually on the rear passenger side, we just moved it to the front so I could trailer it home.

[turbodaytona87]

hahaha

Where is your n00b post? Who are you?

[angrysk8r]

hahaha

Where is your n00b post? Who are you?

A few years ago, and I'm the guy sitting on the same couch as your ass :lol:

[turbodaytona87]

creepy:nervous:

[Lepa]

^^^ fhags

[turbodaytona87]

no, him and nubraskan already have a thing going:gaysex:

[Lepa]

and ur the 3rd wheel so u feel left out

[turbodaytona87]

Yep, wanna be my mopar lover?

[Lepa]

Pass, I have mostly gm and ford lovers sorry.

[turbodaytona87]

damn

[turbodaytona87]

Yay! Steering column took a ****!:woot: Pretty much destroyed the upper part of the steering column where the tilt mechanism, turn signal lever, and ignition cylinder are. Lost power to everything right after I turned left, and the steering wheel got locked for a few seconds until I wiggled it free. Started pushing it home since I was about 3 blocks away on 56th street, finally wiggled the column enough to get the ignition switch work, popped the clutch, and as long as I held the steering wheel to one side I could drive it. So far my $200 jeep has proved more reliable :( Oh well its a project car for a reason. Adam, I'll be giving you a call tomorrow and maybe try to bring the car over Sunday(or you can come here) since someone told me you know these columns well:D

[srt-4_uk]

damn dude. If you didnt have bad luck, you wouldnt have any at all.

[turbodaytona87]

Lol I know, my last daytona broke an oil line and destroyed the engine, so I started rebuilding it, then I found my current one with a blown engine and virtually 0 rust(my floors were getting rusted all the way through, the passenger side floorboard under the feet was just carpet). But I gotta have one project car to work on.

[supercrackerbox]

Get a new column from a junkyard. They take about 15 minutes to swap.

[turbodaytona87]

Ok, does it matter turbo or not? Eh they probably have it in the system. How do you go about swapping it?

[supercrackerbox]

Nope, the only thing that matters is that you get one from a similar year Daytona or LeBaron. '87-'89 should work as long as it's not an airbag column. Just unplug the wiring connectors coming out of the bottom of the column, loosen the four mounting nuts (10mm socket) and drop it on the seat. Unplug the ignition and dimmer switches on top of the column, and give the whole thing a good tug to disconnect it from the steering rack. Installation is reverse of removal.

[turbodaytona87]

So it just pulls out of the steering rack, or do I have to unbolt it?

[86Shelby]

There is at least the pinch bolt right near the rack. There may be one on the inside of the car though at the bottom of the column. You'll just have to look.

[turbodaytona87]

Ok

[supercrackerbox]

Yes, there is a pinch bolt, but don't worry about it. The end of the steering column has a spring loaded D shaped shaft that slides into the u-joint, and the u-joint is then pinch bolted to the input shaft on the steering rack. A good tug pulls the D shaft out of the u-joint, and a good shove puts the new one in. Nothing to it.

And for the record, that 'pinch bolt' isn't a bolt at all, it's a large roll pin. Given it's location in the car, it would be an absolute pain to remove. You'd have to drop the K-member and the steering rack just to get to it, and guess how you drop the steering rack? See above.

[turbodaytona87]

If any of you TD guys has one let me know, I've tried two junkyards and neither have one. Well one did but it looked newer than mine, it had buttons on the side of the steering wheel, and quite possibly could have had an airbag.

[supercrackerbox]

I might still have a non-tilt one, I'll have to check tomorrow. Otherwise head to the U-pullits in Omaha. I"m told there was at least half a dozen Daytonas out there last weekend.

[turbodaytona87]

I might still have a non-tilt one, I'll have to check tomorrow. Otherwise head to the U-pullits in Omaha. I"m told there was at least half a dozen Daytonas out there last weekend.

Non-tilt will get my by, lmk. Unless they are open saturdays I don't really have the time to head up to omaha :(

[supercrackerbox]

Open 7 days a week, 7am to 7pm.

[turbodaytona87]

Hmmm, I may call them tomorrow then

[supercrackerbox]

The most they'll tell you is the price of a steering column. Everything there is flat rate, whether you need a column from an 87 Dodge or a '93 BMW. They don't keep inventory, so the only way to know if they've got your part is to go out there and look. But you'll want to check ahead of time to see if they'll charge extra for the wheel and ignition switch. You'll need a wheel puller if you don't want to buy the wheel too.

[turbodaytona87]

I assume I am going to have to switch my ignition cylinder over?

[supercrackerbox]

Unless you can find one with the key in it still, yes. You have probably a 50/50 chance of the key being in the car. Swapping them isn't incredibly difficult, just a little labor intensive. I might be able to help you out if needed, depending on my schedule.

[turbodaytona87]

Ok, I'll find out how much it is tomorrow, do you have Caleb's number? I want to text him to see if he ended up getting that parts car

[turbodaytona87]

Exhaust is mostly done, all we have left is the piece that goes from the muffler to the side of the car and then put hangers on it. Adam I didn't go to Omaha today, what fitting are you looking for though?

[supercrackerbox]

Think I got the fittings covered, I remembered that the old intake off the Probe had exactly what I was looking for.

[turbodaytona87]

Good deal

[RabidB4C]

:)

[turbodaytona87]

Nubraskan and I got the exhaust all fitted and tacked, just have to wait for Angrysk8r to weld it completely.

[ali]

:lost:

[turbodaytona87]

Pretty much!

[turbodaytona87]

The exhaust is all on and installed but we need to weld on one more hanger so its supported on the side-exit piece. Also figured out the source of my no boost situation, it seems the wastegate arm was catching on the intake, but also when climbing under the car to do the exhaust I found a nice tear in one of my couplers on the backside, looks like home flaring is not the way to go, I'm gonna have to round the lip we made on that pipe.

[turbodaytona87]

Back into the garage it goes. Too many issues popped up to keep driving it so I am going to put it in there until I get most/all of them fixed.

[turbodaytona87]

I might still have a non-tilt one, I'll have to check tomorrow. Otherwise head to the U-pullits in Omaha. I"m told there was at least half a dozen Daytonas out there last weekend.

This is a negatory, there are three between them, the one on 60th doesn't have any, and the other one has an 89+ shelby, 89+ base, and I remember there being one more. BTW do you have that non tilt column?

[turbodaytona87]

Got a hell of a lot of work done today thanks to the weather. I fixed my injector harness, got my new injector o-rings on, installed a new power steering pump and lines, got my power locks fixed, reinstalled all the belts and removed a broken rubber coupler on my intercooler piping. Should be good to go once my steering column is fixed.

[turbodaytona87]

w00t! Intercooler piping is all back together, installed new front speakers(they were missing:joe:), put the new column in and hooked it up, battery is charging (sat in the car too long/often with out it being started), mirror was reinstalled, the other one will be painted tomorrow?

[supercrackerbox]

Collumn seem to work good for you?

[turbodaytona87]

Yeah seems great, I haven't driven the car yet, still need to put on the valve cover, but it seems a lot more solid than my other one, no play at all. I do have one question though, do you know where the hell the plug is for the int wiper module? Is it one from the column? I spent a good 5 mins upside down under the dash looking for it:D Yes I know I should've plugged everything in first.

[supercrackerbox]

Yeah it should be under there, but I don't remember off hand which plug it is.

If I'd have known you had the valve cover off again, I'd have given you a new gasket that I found in the Charger yesterday that I don't plan to use.

[turbodaytona87]

I just use rtv, and I already have one, thanks though. Downside: the power steering rack is leaking majorly bad, empties the reservoir in a few seconds:cry:. What's on the passenger side behind that heat shield? Any thing replaceable or am I looking at replacing the whole rack?

[turbodaytona87]

BTW I fixed the pictures

[86Shelby]

Just do the whole rack since it's that bad.

[supercrackerbox]

Just do the whole rack since it's that bad.

They should list options such as "quick ratio" or "firm feel suspension". Say yes to both.

[turbodaytona87]

Ok thanks, I wouldn't have known how to answer those

[turbodaytona87]

Alright! Now I lost my #1 cylinder! I do know what the problem is though and its because I tried to ghetto-rig an injector plug and it evidently didn't stay together.

[angrysk8r]

Alright! Now I lost my #1 cylinder! I do know what the problem is though and its because I tried to ghetto-rig an injector plug and it evidently didn't stay together.

Just keep it a cylinder down, it'll give you a legit excuse next time you lose :shock::)

[Nubraskan]

Alright! Now I lost my #1 cylinder! I do know what the problem is though and its because I tried to ghetto-rig an injector plug and it evidently didn't stay together.

Just keep it a cylinder down, it'll give you a legit excuse next time you lose :shock::)

The failtona will always have an excuse

[turbodaytona87]

My clutch was slipping, my cat was plugged, I had tools in the car, people were in front of me, etc.

[turbodaytona87]

Oh pipe blew off too, forgot about that one

[turbodaytona87]

Alright! Now I lost my #1 cylinder! I do know what the problem is though and its because I tried to ghetto-rig an injector plug and it evidently didn't stay together.

Just keep it a cylinder down, it'll give you a legit excuse next time you lose :shock::)

Do I need to post a video of your grand am not winning against a ****ing Jeep?

[angrysk8r]

Yea you keep thinkin your cars are fast noob, go hit that mythical 14 psi you're after on the daytona

[turbodaytona87]

I have hit it

[turbodaytona87]

Alright another thing to fix, was driving nicely since I just paid 3.86/gallon, and clutch cable snapped.

[supercrackerbox]

Fairly easy fix, just did mine a month or so ago. New cable is under $20 at NAPA.

[turbodaytona87]

Yeah, I'll probably get to it today or during the weekend

[turbodaytona87]

...clutch is probably broken:cry: I wasn't even driving it hard, I was turning off of cornhusker and now I can't get it to go into any gear while the car is on(no grinding, it just won't go in). Also if I try to stick it in first with the engine on, the car will move slowly forward even though the clutch pedal is all the way down.

[turbodaytona87]

Update:

Put the intercooler behind the bumper where it belongs, fabbed a new battery tray so intercooler pipes could fit by the battery, welded myself an awesome(not going to lie, its pretty ghetto looking, but function over form right?) waste gate actuator bracket. Just have to test grind a borrowed head to see how well the turbo outlet will clear and I can bolt it all together, see if the exhaust still fits (it won't), and wire up the o2 sensor.

[turbodaytona87]

12/09/08
Wastegate bracket and actuator fit and head grinding went well. Head/new turbo are bolted on. When I first started I wanted to see if the cylinders had any rust so I turned the engine over by hand. It had a limited amount of movement so I thought some rust had formed. Then I realized it was in gear :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0156.jpg

I'll get the all the other stuff hooked up(cam shaft, timing belt, fuel hoses, intercooler pipes, battery, TB cables, etc) once its not so cold. Or this weekend if it doesn't bother warming up any.

[srt-4_uk]

is the turbo supposed to be pointed directly at the head and have that 90* bend? Why not just clock the turbo?

[turbodaytona87]

Because the turbo is a Hybrid, the outlet sits directly behind the head, and clocking it doesn't really help anything unless I turn it until the outlet is on the firewall side. Then I would still need a 90*+ bend.

I could buy a header from one of the TD vendors but those are like $400

[turbodaytona87]

12/10/08
Connected the fuel lines. It took a few hours but it was worth it, one step closer.

[supercrackerbox]

A few hours for fuel lines?

[turbodaytona87]

haha no, I was just kidding:) It took like 2 mins in the dark with a flashlight

[ali]

Right...

[86Shelby]

A few hours for fuel lines?

Eh, that's not too bad. Howe many nights did we both work on the Charger or the Spirit and not get crap done? :rofl: Maybe he makes good conversation with the valve cover?

[turbodaytona87]

I did learn alot from the valve cover, its pretty interesting if you just listen to it once in a while :D

[supercrackerbox]

A few hours for fuel lines?

Eh, that's not too bad. Howe many nights did we both work on the Charger or the Spirit and not get crap done? :rofl: Maybe he makes good conversation with the valve cover?

But Nate doesn't drink or smoke. He has no excuse.

[turbodaytona87]

he's got me there

[turbodaytona87]

February 10, 2009
Got the intake tube mounted. I decided to go with an Autozone ricer intake tube since I didn't have much room to work with it made it easier to get around the intercooler pipes. It was only $20 and is black, so it's not too flashy.

Went to Olston's after school and got myself an O2 sensor plug. I wired it to the wideband harness and wired in the wideband controller.

Knock sensor went back in(seemed to have missed it the first time).

Battery tray is ready to be welded completely when angrysk8r quits being angry. I was thinking of having the battery mounted parallel with the car, but decided to keep the stock overflow bottle, so its mounted perpendicular.

Intercooler is now mounted behind the bumper. Still had to run one pipe under the lower radiator support.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0126.jpg

I am going swap to a deepwell oil pan instead of the flat one I have now. It just depends on the weather and when the pickup tube gets here.

New ECU is installed and seems to be working correctly now, gauges aren't going all crazy. I think there was a connector not fully plugged in under the hood

[jorge]

That intercooler piping/bov is just begging to see a tall speed bump

[turbodaytona87]

The BOV was just there to mock up piping since I didn't have another straight piece at the time. The BOV sits right next to the throttle body. Yes I do have to be careful about that pipe(its always been there). But there really isn't any other way to run it. I probably could get it all up under there but I'd need another 4ft of piping and have to do a lot of cutting which I don't want to do.

[supercrackerbox]

I'm telling ya, put in an L-body radiator and you'll have more than enough room to route it.

[Coupelx]

12/09/08
Wastegate bracket and actuator fit and head grinding went well. Head/new turbo are bolted on. When I first started I wanted to see if the cylinders had any rust so I turned the engine over by hand. It had a limited amount of movement so I thought some rust had formed. Then I realized it was in gear :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0156.jpg

I'll get the all the other stuff hooked up(cam shaft, timing belt, fuel hoses, intercooler pipes, battery, TB cables, etc) once its not so cold. Or this weekend if it doesn't bother warming up any.

is that a factory inlet on there? i could really use 2 of them if you know anyone that has any.

[turbodaytona87]

Yep, that's the factory inlet. I found it on craigslist for a larger city(don't remember where exactly).

Here is one though:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUICK-GRAND-NATIONAL-TURBO-REGAL-STOCK-TURBO-INLET-BELL_W0QQitemZ330306530045QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ200 90209?IMSfp=TL090209219004r2685

And here's his second one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__BUICK-GRAND-NATIONAL-TURBO-REGAL-STOCK-TURBO-INLET-BELL_W0QQitemZ330306530674QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q2 6Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewIte mQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item 330306530674&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

[Coupelx]

sweet thx.

[turbodaytona87]

Posted via Mobile Deviceadam i have a/c too so i'd have to tear that out too

[srt-4_uk]

a/c us for fags. I ripped mine out

[turbodaytona87]

Meh neither the Jeep nor the truck have it, so I feel entitled to one vehicle with a/c

[ali]

**** a/c, worked fine in my talon but I do hate a/c...**** a/c!

[turbodaytona87]

June 04, 2009
Ray and I tackled installing the diff-pin retainers on the new diff. Upon inspecting the differential from the old tranny, all three pins were there. I'm not entirely sure what caused the giant hole, but the inside of the old case was torn up pretty good(besides the massive hole in the cover).

June 05, 2009
I soldered together my new wideband controller and display. When I had the company/guy replace my old version with the new one, I didn't even think of it needing to be assembled. Everything went together pretty easy though, and my soldering got pretty good after the first 20-30 connections.

June 06, 2009
I removed the old, flat, oil pan and installed the sump pan and pickup I had for this car. I had been putting it off, but since I had the tranny out and the rear main seal housing(between the pan and the housing, not the seal itself) was leaking too, I decided to go ahead and replace it while RTVing all surfaces so the leaking stops :D

[turbodaytona87]

June 28, 2009
The fuel line between the pump and the carrier came off so I had to lower the gas tank and reclamp the hose. While I had it down and everything disconnected I went ahead and replaced the all of the rubber fuel line under the car(under the hood had already been done). I got the hose from Autozone knowing they had decent FI hose. Its a Goodyear J30R9 spec hose, with a working pressure of 135psi and a burst pressure of 900psi. As well as a Viton inner liner.

Took the car out for a 10psi run, since I'm waiting on new wires, and it hits a solid 11.3:1 A/F ratio.

[turbodaytona87]

In the process of replacing the front suspension and other little things. I have a new crossmember and control arms, poly bushings for the control arms, new strut mounts, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Still need struts, poly sway bar bushings, throwout bearing, rear main seal, and exhaust evac kit.

[Cobra Commander]

Too bad someone painted those stripes on the car. Pretty cool other then that.

[turbodaytona87]

Thanks, the stripes don't bother me too much. I was more concerned with its lack of rust. Who knows, maybe it'll get painted some day...:dunno:

[supercrackerbox]

Did you get the control arm bushings from Johnny or Moog? Lots of people have had problems with the Moogs wearing out quickly, at least in the cast arms. Ray would be one of them.

[turbodaytona87]

I got mine from Energy Suspension. They were about half the price of Johnny's.

[supercrackerbox]

Hmmm, wasn't aware that they made ones for the dual pivot arms.

[turbodaytona87]

Here is where I bought mine from. They were the cheapest place and I had no problems with the company

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=5.3135&PARTNER=gbasesecname&Sec=129151#

[turbodaytona87]

May-June Update

The crossmember and control arms have all been degreased and are ready for paint. I purchased a new throw out bearing, rear main seal, clutch cable (mine was too short) and the exhaust evac stuff.

Debating on spending $125 to have on the fly ECU programming as opposed to having to burn and swap chips all the time. The tuning software for the TDs has come a long way and several cool options are available. There is 2-step, anti-lag, flash the CEL when knock it detected, etc. all available on the stock ECU.

[supercrackerbox]

I'm still confused on your clutch cable, unless it was originally an L-body piece.

[turbodaytona87]

Because from 9/1/92 the clutch arm was changed and the clutch cable length was adjusted from 43" to 46". I have a tranny from 10/x/92 so I had to use the longer cable. I started to wonder about it since my clutch doesn't even start to engage until about the last 1/4 of clutch pedal travel (it also slightly slipped in 4th on the interstate while giving it gas). Then asking around on the forums, I found the above information.

[turbodaytona87]

Replaced my rear main and TOB. Also got my evac welded in to my exhaust and my wideband bung moved.

[turbodaytona87]

Grabbed the fuse/relay box off my Jeep. Going to switch over to the PDC instead of using fusible links. More reliable, and less of a cluster****.

[turbodaytona87]

Here is what I started with:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0076.jpg

Here is mid-way through the switch over. I only have 3 fusible links left to replace and 3 relays to wire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0077.jpg

[srt-4_uk]

everything is the same color

[turbodaytona87]

Sorry :dunno:

[turbodaytona87]

July 5, 2010
In addition to getting rid of somewhat troublesome fusible links, putting in the power distribution center (PDC) also allowed me to fix some damage and modifications by the previous, previous owner.

Power Distribution as it came stock:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0081.jpg

One Modification by PPO:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0083.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0085.jpg

Damaged fan relay plug:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0086.jpg

Almost done wiring in the fuse block. I just have to solder one more connection and one more diode for the A/C clutch to activate the fan relay.

[turbodaytona87]

Everything is wired up. I still need to trim the original fuse box bracket and bolt it down. These pics show how its going to look though (minus the roll of electrical tape holding it up).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0087.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0088.jpg

[turbodaytona87]

July 6th, 2010
Exhaust evac is hooked up. I had to use a 45* elbow to clear the exhaust tunnel, but it worked well.

I got fittings for a hole on the intake for the engine part of the PCV system. I still need some 3/8 hose. The catch can is drying and will be hooked up to the engine and exhaust based PCV systems tomorrow. I will also have a vacuum fitting on the catch can so I can see how much vacuum the system is really pulling.

[turbodaytona87]

July 8, 2010
New catch can is painted and ready to go in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0090.jpg

[turbodaytona87]

This is what the catch can looked like before painting and modification:

http://img.walgreens.com/dbimagecache/83336800737_450x450_a.jpg

PCV system is all hooked up (engine and exhaust). The system is pulling 10" of mercury at idle (haven't driven it yet, but hopefully it maintains at least some vacuum). The oil cap gasket gets stuck to the valve cover.

[83.350.s10]

I'll allow it

[86Shelby]

PCV system is all hooked up (engine and exhaust). The system is pulling 10" of mercury at idle (haven't driven it yet, but hopefully it maintains at least some vacuum). The oil cap gasket gets stuck to the valve cover.

You'll likely see the vacuum increase with engine speed and load. Do you have anything to regulate the vacuum? If not you'll want to pay real close attention to the vacuum since if it's too high you'll suck in gaskets and seals. Who wants to do rear main seals all the time...? Summit and Jegs sell crankcase vacuum regulators.

[turbodaytona87]

I don't have anything to regulate it yet. I will keep an eye on it. On a side note: I basically have no brakes. Pedal just goes to the floor.

[turbodaytona87]

July 8, 2010
I bought a new master cylinder as mine seems to have lost a seal. I also bought a caliper to replace the one that rattles (it uses an oversized pin which I didn't have and which costs $15 anyway), and a supra PCV valve since my stock PCV valve doesn't seal in any way/shape/form (the valve is most likely original to the car).

Hopefully tomorrow I can get everything replaced and try out the PCV system under boost. I did try it a little tonight, but with the bad valve it would only keep up enough to have 0 vac/boost when the turbo was fully spooled to 10psi. It does seem to run decently, it will spin the tires in the top of first and the engine seems to rev quicker.

[turbodaytona87]

Did a leak down test, I only did two cylinders and only one correctly before I got discouraged. #3 cylinder has 35% leakdown. Number one is probably about the same since it leaked quite a bit out the valve cover too. So evidently the rings aren't sealing. Looks like I'll be reringing this winter.

[turbodaytona87]

Back in November(October?) I think a piston cracked. I let off to make a turn (possibly sucked up some oil from the catch can) and heard a loud snap. Seemed to run fine for while until a Turbo Dodge get-together in Iowa. I was accelerating to catch up to the guy in front of me (everything still seemed fine at that point), but as soon as I let off, a huge oil smoke cloud let out behind me and the engine started burning/spraying oil. Went through about 4 quarts of oil driving it home from Iowa (it is a Dodge and all, but that still seemed a little high for oil consumption).

Bought a short block from Ray, and have the head gasket and head bolts. I started unplugging/unbolting things connected to the engine. Should be able to get everything swapped this weekend. Yes Ray/Adam, I'll be removing the transmission with the engine this time.

[Papa_Smurf]

Nice work man.

Wonder if it would be hard to put a 2.4 Srt motor in.

If u need any parts let me know. I have Srt boost gauge and other goodies

[turbodaytona87]

Its not too difficult to do an SRT-4 swap.

[Hillbilly]

Doesn't that fail of a mopar chad has have a 2.4 head?

[turbodaytona87]

I think so. Its easier to just use the whole engine though

[Hillbilly]

I would hope they have better transmissions.

[supercrackerbox]

I would hope they have better transmissions.

The A-555 (Nate's) and A-568 (Ray's) 5-speeds can take a surprising amount of power. Pony up for a Quaiffe and you'll shear axles long before you break the tranny.

[srt-4_uk]

Its not too difficult to do an SRT-4 swap.

If you want to do one, Ill sell you a long block...

[turbodaytona87]

I would hope they have better transmissions.

The A-555 (Nate's) and A-568 (Ray's) 5-speeds can take a surprising amount of power. Pony up for a Quaiffe and you'll shear axles long before you break the tranny.

I have an A-523 now, I broke my A-555 :/

[86Shelby]

What did you do with the gearset from the 555?

[forcedfedmopar]

I would hope they have better transmissions.

The A-555 (Nate's) and A-568 (Ray's) 5-speeds can take a surprising amount of power. Pony up for a Quaiffe and you'll shear axles long before you break the tranny.

i use to snap axles monthly. with the Obx they seem to hold up a bit better. that and im not dropping the clutch anymore. amazing things happen when you learn to launch properly.

srt4 uk..how much for said long block.

[turbodaytona87]

Back off, I hadn't seen that post yet! :D Most likely its too expensive for me, but how much?

[turbodaytona87]

What did you do with the gearset from the 555?

Threw it in the garbage.

[supercrackerbox]

What did you do with the gearset from the 555?

Threw it in the garbage.

:joe:

[turbodaytona87]

What did you do with the gearset from the 555?

Threw it in the garbage.

:joe:

Sorry, didn't know it was wanted (it was run about 30-40 miles without fluid). It sat around my garage for a bit, then I tossed it.

[Hillbilly]

Chad had a manual, then is just broke shafts right? Kind like my 4 speed and 12 bolt.

[supercrackerbox]

Chad had a manual, then is just broke shafts right? Kind like my 4 speed and 12 bolt.

Pretty much.

[turbodaytona87]

Increased oil consumption? Loss of gas mileage? Yep, that will do it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/DaytonaEngine.jpg

That's the number #3 cylinder, which I figured was toast since we had no change in idle when we removed that spark plug wire on the road. I thought it was cracked, but it looks like I melted my first piston. Not entirely sure why it melted, all the others pistons look fine, the looks good, and so do all four plugs (well #3 is oily). I did notice that I have some exposed wiring on the #1 fuel injector plug, I think I might buy some injector plugs and rebuild that harness.

[86Shelby]

I was quite happy with the injector pigtails from A St. auto parts. They also had the correct pins in stock to totally rebuild the harness and essentially only reuse the split loom and the main harness connector.

[turbodaytona87]

Hmmm I will check that out, do you know their price on the pigtails?

[turbodaytona87]

August 28, 2011
I picked up a good short block from ray for a good price a while back. Yesterday I took the engine/trans out and separated them and removed the head. Today, everything went back together and the engine and transmission are sitting in the car. They still have to be bolted up completely and the accessories put on. Should be ready to go in a few days.

[turbodaytona87]

My Taurus fan seems to fit my radiator perfectly (ok, almost). The Taurus fan is thinner and flows more air than the factory fan (by nearly 3500 CFM).

I also plan to move the heater control valve elsewhere. It kind of gets in the way with intercooler piping.

I am also going to get my suspension parts painted, and ready to be installed. I have new struts, new strut mounts, crossmember, control arms, poly control arm bushings, new ball joints, and new tie rod ends ready to be put in. I would also like to take out the steering rack and warranty it for boots that are degrading.

[supercrackerbox]

I also plan to move the heater control valve elsewhere. It kind of gets in the way with intercooler piping.


Cap the vacuum line and ditch the valve. They even stopped putting them in at the factory once they figured out that they actually served no real benefit.

[turbodaytona87]

What about a/c temps though? I haven't looked at the a/c diagram yet, but it doesn't have blend doors does it?

[86Shelby]

The heater control valve blocks coolant flow to the heater core ONLY when Max A/C is selected. Your temp blend door is cable operated. The other vacuum line going through the firewall near the heater hoses is for the mode door which changes floor/vents/defrost.

[supercrackerbox]

Ah, forgot you kept the AC on there. Might ask Ray about it then. I know my white car didn't come with one at the factory, but they may have changed the heater boxes for the dash redesign.

[supercrackerbox]

And post blocked.

[86Shelby]

I ninja posted before you knew what hit ya! :lol:

[supercrackerbox]

Yeah you must have been real quick to type that in the time it took me to go back to the beginning to see that he still had AC, get caught up in the build and re-read the entire thread, skip the last page since I'd just read it, and then type my response.













:p

[Hillbilly]

he is quick like a turbo dodge

[turbodaytona87]

Maybe I will ditch it then. That would give me a bit more room

[86Shelby]

IMHO drawing in the already cooler interior air while on Max/recirc more than offsets any very slight warming that the heater core may induce. I haven't ran one on my cars in years...mostly because they leaked or I broke it.

[turbodaytona87]

Consider it gone then. I had one winter without heat because the valve got stuck with broken plastic

[turbodaytona87]

August 29th, 2011
A Street Auto didn't have any injector plugs, and I was fairly sure they couldn't beat the online price, so I ordered a set of 6 (a couple spares) for $15

[millertime]

is A Street Auto the place on like 20th and Cornhusker like google tells me? Strange name for the location.

[KyleJ]

I thought it was 40th and A?

[millertime]

second search reveals there are two stores named that, one on 20th and cornhusker, the other 40th and A

[supercrackerbox]

August 29th, 2011
A Street Auto didn't have any injector plugs, and I was fairly sure they couldn't beat the online price, so I ordered a set of 6 (a couple spares) for $15

****, should have let me know, I'd have ordered some too to save on shipping. Oh well.

[turbodaytona87]

The place I bought from only charged $3 shipping ($15 total)

[turbodaytona87]

August 3, 2011
Redid my injector harness. Good thing too because it was starting to get really worn. I bolted down all the mounts, and removed the heater control valve too. I'll need to get some longer heater hose to make up for it.

I think I might take the time to try to get some wiring out of the way. It would look way cleaner.

[turbodaytona87]

September 5, 20011
Had a Ford Taurus Fan lying around from the Jeep, decided to see how it fit the Daytona radiator, it well well! The stock fan moves around 1000CFM from what've I've seen on the forums. This moves 4000-4500CFM on its high setting, and its thinner than the stock fan!

The alternator was installed, I bought new heater hoses to by-pass the heater control valve, oil line for the turbo was installed, clutch cable and shifter cables have been connected, throttle cable is hooked up.

Forgot about the water line on the back of the block though, so I'll have to wrestle with that, or I might just plug the line instead of the block and call it good :lol:

Taurus Fan
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/2011-09-05154755.jpg

[turbodaytona87]

August 5, 2011
Damn you and your radiator Ray! The radiator I bought from Ray sticks farther to the driver's side than the last one did. The intercooler piping was ran right next to the radiator. Not any more.

My plan is to run the intercooler piping next to and behind the battery. Same caveat is the power module sits next to the battery, so it will need to be moved. This isn't entirely a bad thing however since the harness side connectors are in terrible shape. Moving the power module will give me the chance to re-connector it.

Its either that or put the battery in the trunk, or route the piping under the car again :lol:

[86Shelby]

If you want, you can try using the Omni's battery tray and battery. Both are smaller in every dimension than the EEK stuff.

I didn't realize that the EEK TI radiator was wider in 86 than 87. I also have an L-body radiator, or a TII unit. The TII unit will need a different neck brazed on for the cap...which I have one on a different TII radiator with a rotten to hell core. Or leave the neck alone and deal with it leaking; I forgot that the Omni's hood needed to be massaged to fit the radiator before I shut the hood which tweaked the neck. Your taurus fan won't fit at all on the TII radiator though. :o/

Double check the radiator, some of them had removeable mounts on the bottom that could be moved to suit different mounts. As for the top, fire up the band saw and make some pieces that fit between the rails and up into the regular mounting brackets and run that. I did that for one upper mount on the GLHS and GLHT when I ran the TII Daytona radiator in them.

[turbodaytona87]

The radiator is all sorts of weird. The rubber mount bushings are smaller, the neck is smaller, it sits farther over, the overflow nipple runs right into the car. What's the L body one like?

What group code is the omni battery? I'm already running a 75

[86Shelby]

It's rectangle shaped....likely not as wide. Beyond that I couldn't tell ya. You're welcome to try it. Worst case is that it's more of the same.

[turbodaytona87]

Meh, I think this will work, and it cleans up the engine bay better.

[millertime]

Those Taurus fans do work! that's what a lot of the v8 rx7 guys use from what I've been reading.

[turbodaytona87]

Yeah it kept my JGC cool with the a/c running no matter outside temp

[supercrackerbox]

What group code is the omni battery? I'm already running a 75

Group 26

[turbodaytona87]

Meh marginally smaller

[supercrackerbox]

I had a Honda battery in my '88. Tucked in nicely behind the passenger side of the radiator support.

[turbodaytona87]

Keep in mind I have a/c stuff too

[Hillbilly]

Keep in mind I have a/c stuff too

maybe you are getting smarter.

[turbodaytona87]

:lol:

I've never removed a/c on anything, summers get too hot for that.

[Hillbilly]

I wish my car had it. Mine was a no option car. Mine doesn't have power anything now.

[turbodaytona87]

The Ram is the first one I bought that had working a/c. The Jeep needed gaskets/a/c compressor manifold, the Daytona has a huge hole in the evaporator (probably too late in the year to worry about changing it), and the black truck never had it.

[turbodaytona87]

September 6, 2011
Put the injector harness on, started planning the intercooler pipe run.

[supercrackerbox]

Keep in mind I have a/c stuff too

Well yes, but the point is there's other options.

[turbodaytona87]

I'll just move the power module. Its fairly easy, and with the intercooler routing, there will be more room in the engine bay.

[turbodaytona87]

September 10, 2011
New oil, new filter, and primed. Figured out the new intercooler piping routing. Going to move the power module to the front bumper. That moves it out of the way, and the rewiring is much easier.

[turbodaytona87]

October 1, 2011
Got the timing belt put on, and distributor hold down painted. I also cut a path for the intercooler piping, and figured out exactly where the power module is going.

Oh, and I painted the engine mount and bumper mounts :lol:

[turbodaytona87]

October 9, 2011
Not a huge update: put on the valve cover, installed the distributor, and did one half of the harness extension for the power module. The harness extension came out looking good. I need some slightly larger wire for the other half however since that half is power wires and not signal wires. The harness extension is also replacing some brittle power module plugs for some better pieces.

Left to do is:

Finish the harness
Find nut/spacer for FPR
Ground injector harness
Connect the alternator harness
Mount the battery tray correctly (it was just hanging out before)
Modify the down pipe angle (for some reason its now off?)
Bolt on the hood
Put suspension back together (cv shafts, ball joints back in knuckles, bolt down tie rods, etc)
Install rear engine/trans bracket
Bolt on transmission strut to cross member
Finish intercooler piping (might have to find another L bend or two)


So not hard stuff, just a bunch of loose ends

[Papa_Smurf]

A heads up

When u start running the piping id recommend these guys. Www.siliconeintakes.com

[turbodaytona87]

Yeah, I've heard of them. Bit expensive IMHO. I order that **** straight from a 10yr old Chinese girl.

[turbodaytona87]

Find nut/spacer for FPR
Mount the battery tray correctly (it was just hanging out before)
Modify the down pipe angle (for some reason its now off?)
Bolt on the hood
Put suspension back together (cv shafts, ball joints back in knuckles, bolt down tie rods, etc) [driver side is done, will do passenger side once the downpipe is figured out]
Install rear engine/trans bracket
Bolt on transmission strut to cross member
Finish intercooler piping (might have to find another L bend or two)

[turbodaytona87]

Find nut/spacer for FPR
Modify the down pipe angle (for some reason its now off?)
Bolt on the hood
Put suspension back together (cv shafts, ball joints back in knuckles, bolt down tie rods, etc) [driver side is done, will do passenger side once the downpipe is figured out]
Install rear engine/trans bracket
Bolt on transmission strut to cross member
Finish intercooler piping (might have to find another L bend or two)


Mounted the battery tray, the ignition coil (using the more modern coil, rather than the oil filled canister), and finished fan wiring.