any tips on fixing a dented oil pan?

[matt]

I got a pretty ****ing big dent in my oil pan, and I dont feel like buying a new one, so I want to just smack the dent out.
I have read you can weld a rod on the dent, and on the other end of the rod weld on a flat plate, and then smack the plate wich pulls the dent out.
this would be ideal, but I dont have a welder,
unless one of you would like to help me do this by throwin down a weld or 2.....

I am most likely just gunna pull off the pan and beat it out.
is there anything I should be watching out for, or taking extra care for??

thanks

[DarkSlide]

Check the oil pickup to make sure it's not damaged as well.

[95gsx]

Welder sparks pwns your oil pan

try a 2 by 4, about a foot long, and a rubber mallet works wonders on metal

[4 cam torino]

I'd be afraid of burning through the pan and creating bigger problems.

[88alltrac]

i have a big hammer.....
i think taking it off would be best.

[Js04sILVerBullet]

I think for all the hassle you will have to go thru just to fix this one i would just buy a new one since you will have to take the old one off anyways

[matt]

well I got under it, and it isnt bad at all,
like I wouldnt even consider it a dent, Idk why I thought it was bigger

[David]

a dent isn't going to affect it's ablitiy to hold oil. I vote for not worring about it.

[supercrackerbox]

^^Agreed. If it's not leaking or blocking the pickup, I'd leave it. I have a mother****er of a dent in the Daytona's pan, but as long as the oil pressure stays good, I'm fine with it.

But if you need to fix it, pull it off and let me know, I can work it out for ya.

[82355]

Use your normal solution and buy a different car.

Martin

[matt]

well there is a whole other issue with the car,
vtec wont engage, absolutely everything has been checked, 2 different ecu's, 1 of them has had 3 different chips/programs/settings on it and still nothing,
so that basically leaves it up to the mechanics of vtec, oil pressure, and cams.
if the dent would have been bigger it could mess with the pick up, giving it lower oil pres, and not enough for vtak

[SHIFTER]

take the pan off... get a BFH and pound it back out, check the pick up... reinstall. Had to do it to one of my 3sgtes... never had any problems after that.

[C.J.]

i have a big hammer.....
i think taking it off would be best.

[Ervin]

I got a pretty ****ing big dent in my oil pan, and I dont feel like buying a new one, so I want to just smack the dent out.
I have read you can weld a rod on the dent, and on the other end of the rod weld on a flat plate, and then smack the plate wich pulls the dent out.
this would be ideal, but I dont have a welder,
unless one of you would like to help me do this by throwin down a weld or 2.....

I am most likely just gunna pull off the pan and beat it out.
is there anything I should be watching out for, or taking extra care for??

thanks

a hammer and some motivation

[Johnny]

ohes noes no VTAK!!!!!

[BossRoss]

:lost:

[schovil69]

U sure it's got V-tech technology in there? I mean, if ur just going off what it says on a cover somewhere....

[BOWERS]

well there is a whole other issue with the car,
vtec wont engage, absolutely everything has been checked, 2 different ecu's, 1 of them has had 3 different chips/programs/settings on it and still nothing,
so that basically leaves it up to the mechanics of vtec, oil pressure, and cams.
if the dent would have been bigger it could mess with the pick up, giving it lower oil pres, and not enough for vtak

Problems usualy brake down into 2 categories and sometimes include both: mechanical and electrical. the first thing when wiring in a swap or diagnosing a problem is to check and recheck and check 50 trilion times your wiring, and run new wires if you have to, its very important that electrical is right first. mechanical problems can sometimes be the hardest to diagnois, but there are ways of testing certian issues

*CELs and LIMP MODE, any number of things can throw you into limp mode and you definatly won't have vtec. most likely if you have a CEL fix that first then worry about VTEC. CEL can be a great indicator as to whats going on, and that light is lit for a reason. even when people say, "i have a CEL but thats a different issue" fix that FIRST, then worry about vtec. many codes that are set have alot to do with why vtec isn't working. and if your car is most definatly not acting right take apart the dash and check that your CEL light is not burnt out. it should light up when you first turn the key on.

*VSS/ SPEEDO if your car loses its speed reference vtec will not engauge. the ecu will see it just as if you were sitting still reving the engine, no vtec

*TACHOMETER i have seen a case where there was a problem with a persons tach, and i don't know where the wiring problem was, but if the ecu doesn't have a tach reference , then how is it going to know when you reach proper rpm.. exactly

*OIL, if you don't have the correct oil presure no vtec: possible causes: dented or damaged oil pan, not enough oil, or oil is so old and crappy it is thin as water

*VTEC OIL PRESURE switch, The vtec oil presure switch is what feeds back information the the computer to tell it wether or not the opening of the solinoid has alowed high presure oil into the vtec oil gallerys. Once the solinoid opens oil shoud presurize the vtec oil ways pushing the locker pins into place while the oil presure sensor right next to the vtec solinoid feeds back info to the ecu.

*TEMP, the cars coolant temp needs to be at a certian temp for vtec to engage, if any of your temperature sensors are screwed up that is another possibility to look into

*VTEC SOLINOID GASKET/screen, i have heard and seen many cases where a cloged or dirty screen that is part of the vtec soliniod gasket caused vtec to not engage or be intermitant.

*THROTTLE POSITION, if your throwing a code for the TPS being bad or wacky this can also cause intermitant or no engagement, from my expermiments, whether vtec engauges or not is throttle position dependent.

Also check the solenoid itself, make sure it has current or that your solenoid isn't bad. I have heard of a few issues with a dent in the oil ban will mees this up as well.

[matt]

I have checked everything you listed,
and the car isnt throwing any codes whatso ever.
and its not in limp mode, infact it drives fantastic just like it should,
but with out vtec, the wires from the solenoid and the pressure switch are wired straight into the obd1 side of the jumper harness right to the correct pins.
I have had 3 different honda people look at it now, and it seems like the next step is just re-wiring it, even though its just those 3 wires...

its confusing

[Thunder]

it says in there, dented or damaged oil pan could effect VTEC turning on.


*OIL, if you don't have the correct oil presure no vtec: possible causes: dented or damaged oil pan, not enough oil, or oil is so old and crappy it is thin as water


so i know you got the dent out... is it totally flush like normal? I don't know what your oil pan is made of, but if its thick enough I don't see it just popping back into place. Maybe just not as big a dent as before.

[matt]

Therwe is basically no dent at all, I changed my oil when I first got it and I thought there was a dent in it, then I read the info about how that could affect vtec, so I went and bought a gasket and planned to tap it out, then got under it and there really isn't a dent at all, what I thought was one is just a shape in the pan from the factory. I am going to hook up a oil pressure gauge that should let me know

[Thunder]

dont have one installed currently?

[82355]

There has got to be a clapped out RX7 out there with your name on it. . . . . .

Martin

[matt]

dont have one installed currently?

no....

[Cobra Commander]

There has got to be a clapped out RX7 out there with your name on it. . . . . .

Martin

ROFL