View Full Version : A/F Ratio
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 02:06 PM
How much affect with an exhaust leak have on the A/F ratio when it's being measured at the tailpipe and not at headers?
C.J.
1st November 2007, 02:09 PM
not 17:1 bad.
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 02:26 PM
I'm not sure it would make any difference at all. wouldn't the exhaust have the same oxygen content? the leak is letting exhaust out, not fresh air in. It'd be like asking if the a/f was correct if you only measured one pipe on true duals.
Gentoo
1st November 2007, 02:31 PM
I'm not sure it would make any difference at all. wouldn't the exhaust have the same oxygen content? the leak is letting exhaust out, not fresh air in. It'd be like asking if the a/f was correct if you only measured one pipe on true duals.
werd
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 02:37 PM
I guess that makes sense. I was just going off of what the guy at C&S said, which is that the exhaust leak could be affecting the A/F ratio.
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 02:44 PM
C&S?
Johnny
1st November 2007, 02:50 PM
that guy is a retard
I bet you just need to check the fuel pressure. Prolly just not enough. But who knows...
roo
1st November 2007, 03:01 PM
My wideband always seems to read richer at the manifold than the wideband on the tailpipe at the dyno but they are also different brand widebands. It also doesn't help that I read everything in lambda and the dyno calculates everything to AFR. I know last time I was there I was showing around 11.0 while it was showing around 11.6
Like I said different wideband so that is probably the difference its just odd that they read that far apart.
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 03:07 PM
C&S?
C&S Motorsports in Omaha, I think it use to be EJs dyno.
I have a pressure gauge in the engine bay, when it idles it has about 40 psi, and when i rev it up, it doesn't change, but I have no way of knowing if the pressure drops when I'm actually driving it.
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 03:10 PM
that's fine for idle. you got yellow injectors?
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 03:52 PM
No, they're blue. I just bumped the pressure up to 45 psi and took it for a spin, it's seems to be alot more responsive when I hit the gas.
Johnny
1st November 2007, 03:54 PM
45psi is a smidge high, I wonder why you are leaning out so bad, doe it have a bad idle?
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 03:56 PM
you've got the 24lb injectors then. Somethin's wrong.
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 03:57 PM
When it first starts it idles pretty rough, but after it warms up for a few minutes it idles pretty good.
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 03:58 PM
you've got the 24lb injectors then. Somethin's wrong.
Any idea what it might be?
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 03:58 PM
coolant temp sensor.
they're cheap.
GO!
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 04:05 PM
That could definently be it, I took the stock one out to install an aftermarket gauge!! Damn it.
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 04:14 PM
uhhhhh.
What?
I can't remember, is there one for the factory gauge and one for the ecu?
A lot of cars they're separate.
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 04:18 PM
I think there is only one. My electric fan was hooked up to through the computer and when I took that sensor out the fan quit working.
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 04:27 PM
Lol. Okay. There's your problem. Put it back.
LXTASY
1st November 2007, 05:25 PM
Now I'm only going to ask this question cause I'm a newb with this technical crap. What does the coolant temp have to do with the fuel delivery?
MadmaX
1st November 2007, 05:32 PM
ecu adds fuel when it thinks the coolant is cold. it doesn't know what temp the coolant is right now so who knows what it's doing. Well I guess we do; the wrong thing.
Dynosport
1st November 2007, 08:34 PM
Do you have a pic of the dyno graph with the AFR? Is the problem only at WOT? If you are using the stock 155LPH pump it might not be enough at that power level.
MadmaX
2nd November 2007, 09:39 AM
that could be something too.
I been thinkin' on that coolant temp deal. I brought it up 'cause you said it stumbles when cold, so clearly the ecu doesn't know to add fuel to your cold motor. but I don't know why it would take fuel away to the point of running lean when warm at wot.
put a long hose on that fuel pressure gauge and watch it through the windshield while you drive.
clint
2nd November 2007, 05:27 PM
Not common but an exhaust leak could effect afrs at the tailpipe to not be acurate. See it once in a while when an exhaust leak is before an oxygen sensor.
86Shelby
2nd November 2007, 06:01 PM
An exhaust leak before the O2 sensor will normally cause it to read lean.
Benoulli's principle. I don't care if it's spelled wrong.
LXTASY
6th November 2007, 12:26 PM
Well it definently wasn't just because of the fuel pressure. The car sat for the last 4 days and when I drove to work this morning, it was running same as it had been.
I'll post up the dyno sheets when I get home tonight.
MadmaX
6th November 2007, 12:38 PM
An exhaust leak before the O2 sensor will normally cause it to read lean.
Benoulli's principle. I don't care if it's spelled wrong.
but if it's reading lean, won't the ecu see that, add fuel, and the result be that it's actually running rich.
Dynosport
6th November 2007, 04:41 PM
Well it definently wasn't just because of the fuel pressure. The car sat for the last 4 days and when I drove to work this morning, it was running same as it had been.
I'll post up the dyno sheets when I get home tonight.
Post your mod list too(cylinder heads, cam, chip, MAF, injectors, exhaust, etc..).
LXTASY
6th November 2007, 06:21 PM
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i56/ostdiekjennifer/dynochart.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i56/ostdiekjennifer/dynonumbers.jpg
I don't know about the heads and cam, since I didn't build the motor. I don't believe it has a chip, it has a 75mm MAF calibrated for 24lb injectors, long tube headers w/ H-pipe and flowmaster mufflers, MSD distributor, coil and 6AL ignition box. Any thing else? Let me know if the images don't show, I haven't quite gottem them figured out yet.
Thanks
86Shelby
6th November 2007, 06:35 PM
An exhaust leak before the O2 sensor will normally cause it to read lean.
Benoulli's principle. I don't care if it's spelled wrong.
but if it's reading lean, won't the ecu see that, add fuel, and the result be that it's actually running rich.
Rich in the combustion chamber, yes. With it rich for combustion, and the leak, it could very well only be reading ~.5v or less at the sensor. In bad cases I've seen the ECU max out the rich adaptation, yet still read lean at the sensor due to the leak.
Dynosport
6th November 2007, 08:37 PM
If you have a exhaust leak that bad it should be pretty easy to find and if the car runs good at idle and cruise the first thing I would do is verify it with another wideband to make sure the dyno reading was accurate. Usually when you have a big exhaust leak initially it's lean then as you get more exhaust flow it's pretty close to the same AFR as if you didn't. Fuel pump and injector issues usually keep getting leaner with RPM.
I would make sure the MAF is clean and reading properly. And without a chip the computer doesn't know it's a 347 or actually has 24lb injectors.
LXTASY
6th November 2007, 10:33 PM
What's the proper way to clean the MAF?
How much would it again with the wideband in place of the o2 sensor? The first time it was on the dyno they read the AFR at the tailpipe and the leak is between the collectors and tailpipe.
How much for a chip and tune?
Thanks
Johnny
7th November 2007, 11:06 AM
^^$400-500
Dynosport
7th November 2007, 07:55 PM
What's the proper way to clean the MAF?
How much would it again with the wideband in place of the o2 sensor? The first time it was on the dyno they read the AFR at the tailpipe and the leak is between the collectors and tailpipe.
How much for a chip and tune?
Thanks
I could do a baseline for $50 and have a good idea of what's going on. Rabbid got the price correct it just depends upon the time it takes. O'Reilly's sells the CRC MAF cleaner or use rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip.
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