99 Miata 5.0 swap

[Stein]

Time to start a work log.

After DIY turbocharging my other 99 Miata, I was longing for more. It's tough to get past 250 WHP without dropping some serious coin. First, its forged internals and a full motor build. That lets it live to 270WHP. Then you need to upgrade to a 6 speed for another $900 and figure out how to keep the IRS from self destructing so that's another $2K. If you want 300WHP or more, it's ragged edge and a lot of money.

So, I decided to go V8. Yes, LS1 is nice, but not as DIY friendly. I like building things. I used to be a tool and die maker, but now I am in sales for a tool and die company so I like to get back to it. Each winter I do a new project. You know how winters are here. Long and boring.

2005 was a scratch built Sabretooth mini sand rail from plans with a KZ750 motor. All hand coped and TIG welded joints. After I built it, I drove it for a half hour. After that, I lost my place to play so there it sits for the last four years. It doesn't really bother me. I really always wanted to build one but didn't really care if I drove it. I'd sell it if anyone is interested in an inexpensive buggy.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Picture027.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Picture026.jpg

2006 was a scratch built 4WD articulating loader. Normally it wears a 48" bucket, but I built a set of grapples for cutting firewood last year. Sorry, no pics with the bucket. Actually, you can see a pic of it in the buggy picture above.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/loader.jpg

2007 was recarpeting my Ranger bass boat. You wouldn't believe how many hours it takes to pull the carpet, scrape all of the old glue, cut everything and get it to fit right, plus all of the little trim, etc. Also was a full rebuild of the diesel motor in my Ford tractor. First time splitting a tractor, first time overhauling a motor myself. First diesel. Machine work for new head, rods, crank, sleeves done by Carquest on west O. Everything else done by me with a $12.99 manual from Tractor Supply. Sorry, no pics of the tractor, but I should have.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Picture022-1.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Picture024.jpg

2008 was DIY turbocharging my 99 and restoring my wife's 91BRG Miata. Will have to update later with pics.

So... 2009 is the V8 swap into yet another 99 Miata.

The reason for the swap. Oops... Not my doing.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Miata/HPIM0599.jpg

Motor is out.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Miata/HPIM0587.jpg

Plenty of room for a V8.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Miata/HPIM0589.jpg

Front subframe will be extensively modified to fit and mount the 5.0.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Miata/HPIM0592.jpg

Motor is a 93 Mustang 5.0 in a ratty old 83 Thunderbird. Picked it up with 30K on the motor/trans for $850. Kind of fell into it. I couldn't find a decent $1K Mustang without a bazillion miles and he couldn't sell a ratty T bird with a swap. Everything is disconnected and ready to pull except for unbolting the motor mounts and tranny mount. That will have to wait until this week's business trip is over.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Miata/HPIM0590.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Miata/HPIM0597.jpg

Nice to be able to fit both cars in the shop at one time. Nothing gets "parked" in the shop. It's for projects only. I have a 30x56 building, half for toys and half for shop. Just built a 40x60 this year so most of the stuff got moved to the new building to open up space.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Sabertooth%20Dune%20Buggy%20for%20sale/Miata/HPIM0596.jpg

So, a bit of background on what I like to do for projects in the winter. Will keep you updated on the progress. Any feedback on the 5.0 would be appreciated. I don't know squat about domestics. But, I have a manual!

[BOORAH]

Wow, awesome.

How much were you trying to get out of the buggy, just curious.

[millertime]

NICE!
I wish I had the resources/skills to do this sort of stuff. Looking forward to seeing this.

[96eclipse]

nice work keep it up :Thumb:

[kevin_s_08]

interested in the buggy. would rather build one like you did, but if its cheap enough.....

[Stein]

interested in the buggy. would rather build one like you did, but if its cheap enough.....

I didn't start this to generate a for sale ad, but a couple have asked. You couldn't build one for what I will sell it for. I have $3K into it for parts and materials alone, not counting time. It's been sitting for four years. Carbs are varnished up from sitting so you would have to go through them again. I'd sell it for $2500 because the carbs need to be gone through. Any less and it will sit in the shop waiting for me to get back to it someday.

Motor was gone through, honed and reringed, valves done and set. Carbs were rebuilt at the time and jetted for Kerker header by a mechanic in Wahoo, not by me. Have paperwork. Stock KZ's were rated at 74 HP. It goes well.

Brand new ITP Mudlites and machined aluminum ITP wheels.
Chirco 5 point harness
Chirco seat
Chirco fuel cell
Dan's Performance three way pedals with roller throttle, hydralic brakes and clutch
All parts were new except for top ended motor.
All hand coped joints and TIG welded
Sandblasted and painted at Whitrock Sandblasting and Painting in Waverly

If you are interested PM me. I have more pics or if you want to see it in person. I'm north of Lincoln near Ceresco.

The owner of Badland Buggy said that it was the finest example that he had seen built outside of his shop. He is in Canada and was actually looking at contracting construction of rolling chassis for the US through me but it was going to be too much work considering my schedule and I really didn't need the hassle. I did it for fun. He gets $7,500 for a roller, completed buggies start at $12,500 for reference.

[jesseligon]

that is going to be a fun car when it is done.

[millertime]

Obvious kid is obvious
Posted via Mobile Device

[Stein]

Got a little more done today.

Motor is out.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0604.jpg

Harness has been pulled and is being sent off to PA to be updated to drop in fitment and trimmed of all wiring that is not needed. This shop has done several Monster Miatas and has done harnesses for many more.

Started disassembling the front subframe to begin cutting it to fit.

Also, new axles showed up Friday!:) They are built for Factory Five Racing for their Cobra kits and are good for 500 HP. I couldn't believe it. Two full axles and CV's for $220. Monster wants $1500 and Boss Frog gets $2300 for theirs.:lol:

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0602.jpg

Still need to pick up the other T Bird to get the 8.8 IRS.

[Stein]

A little update for today.

I built a welding fixture for the front subframe. This is the most critical part of my build. I'm cutting the subframe into three separate pieces, so I needed a very robust jig to weld it back together, ensuring that the pickup points remain where they are suposed to be.

The rear subframe mounts are on two 3/4" tubes with stops below and the 3/4" tubes are flush with the top of the subframe. 3/4" tubing fit the rear holes perfectly. Very snug. I welded a 1/2" bolt to the main frame first, cut 3/4" bushings to length and welded them on. I then pulled off the subframe and I slipped a piece of oversize tubing on cut to a length to set the depth and welded it as well.

I made eight brackets to hold the lower A-Arm joints. I used some old PPF bolts to mount it. They fit in the slots perfectly. Holes in the jig are size-for-size on the bolts. Zero movement.

I also tied in the upper A-Arm mounts using some extra upper A-Arm mounting bolts. It would have been tough to figure the exact location of the holes, so I clearanced the 2" tubing and then drilled out some 1/2" washers to fit the bolt snugly. I welded on the 2" tube uprights, let it cool and move where it wanted to after welding and then assembled the hardware, finally welding on the washers for perfect alignment.

I want to add one more square tube that angles along the face of the steering rack mounts so I can positively locate them as the front of the subframe will be loose when I cut it into pieces.

Some pics. No, the 2" tubing isn't bent. Just the camera angle.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0606.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0608.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0609.jpg

[swaggy853]

i do like the way you are going about this yourself, but personally im goin this route when i swap mine:

http://racingconcepts.net/graphic/photo/full_kit_1.jpg

[Stein]

Well, I took the plunge today and cut the subframe.

I marked out where I wanted to cut through on the topside for reference. This was only used when I stopped cutting just to see how the sawzall was coming through, as I was cutting the entire subrame at one time from the bottom and some of the cuts were seven inches apart.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0623.jpg

On the back (bottom) I mounted a sacrifical piece of plywood. On that I marked my cut lines. The plywood allowed for a flat surface to guide the shoe of the sawsall, allowed a fine pencil line and helped maintain a perpendicular cut.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0624.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0626.jpg

Center section dropped out.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0627.jpg

A side view.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0629.jpg

[Stein]

The cut came out very straight. There will be very little cleanup needed to get a perfectly flat place to weld the side plate to.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0630.jpg

Section that was cut through in one pass. I used one 9" bimetal sawzall blade per side. Cutting through the original motor mount cups was pretty tough going.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0634.jpg

Full on shot looking down the center. There is a little to be cleaned u, but all on the steel safe side. Ten minutes with the angle grinder and I will be good to go.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0636.jpg

Right down the line.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0637.jpg

All in all, it went very well. After everything was set up, it probably only took 10 minutes to make both cuts.

Next it to cut away the front plate that holds the steering rack brackets. That plate will be welded to the front cross member.

[swaggy853]

i approve

[blubryyum]

first page...
Damn I can't wait to see this build. That loader is badass, a little unsafe but badass none the less.

[turbodaytona87]

Amazing fab skills!

[EVOVIIIjohn]

agreed... also a very good writeup. keep up the good work! :Thumb:

[Stein]

This just in...

Bought this today.

Mustang Roller 5.0 bored .030 over
TRW forged pistons with Teflon coated skirts
Balanced and polished crank
E-303 Ford Motorsports cam
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Chain
1.6 Adjustable Roller Rockers
Trick Flow Hardened Pushrods
AFR 165 #1402 Heads
Reverse rotation water pump and timing chain cover
Factory front balancer
Mustang double sump oil pan

He also threw in a lightly ported and gasket matched Explorer upper and lower intake after I bought it.

Also, picked up my new $400 hardtop last night!

[Stein]

Welded up my subframe last weekend. Sorry I didn't get any pics yet. I MIG welded it. When I took it out of the frame, some of the bolts were pretty snug but I can get it out and back in so it had to have warped less than 1/16". Easily will be drawn back to normal shape when bolted into the car. Heck, the factory one had almost 1/8" of twist in it before I started.

[Hibs]

very nice build. you will be happy with that motor. easily 300rwhp. get a custom grind cam, and a good intake and you might even see 350rwhp. those motorsport cams are OK, but outdated.

[millertime]

looking good!

[Stein]

very nice build. you will be happy with that motor. easily 300rwhp. get a custom grind cam, and a good intake and you might even see 350rwhp. those motorsport cams are OK, but outdated.

Another guy just told me that on the V8Miata forum. Specifically, "unless I have emissions issues, get a more modern grind." But, it's going in as is for now. Gotta stop buying and finish building or it will be in a perpetual state of "not done". I can always change things later.

Now, about that reverse rotation water pump and timing chain cover, I assume that is to run the belt the "other way around" the pulley when eliminating smog pump, AC and/or both? It was already on there and I don't know Fords at all.

[swaggy853]

$400 hardtop wtf?

[Stein]

$400 hardtop wtf?

lulz. Someone on Miataturbo.net posted a link to the CL ad in Sioux City. He was about 20 miles NE of there. Drove up there at 6:00 and got home last night at 11:00.:lol:

Surprisingly, the ad was up for two days and he said that I was the only call.

[Bobby Light]

stein...if you dont mind me asking...what do you do for a living?

[Stein]

stein...if you dont mind me asking...what do you do for a living?

Sales Manager for Garner Industries. It's a CNC machining and plastic injection molding plant on 98th and Cornhusker.

I used to be a tool and die maker before I came here for this job 15 years ago. I don't work in the shop any more, so I have to do projects to keep my hands dirty.

[Bobby Light]

10-4 I drive past there every day on my way home.

[swaggy853]

$400 hardtop wtf?

lulz. Someone on Miataturbo.net posted a link to the CL ad in Sioux City. He was about 20 miles NE of there. Drove up there at 6:00 and got home last night at 11:00.:lol:

Surprisingly, the ad was up for two days and he said that I was the only call.

thats redamndiculous

[Stein]

$500 black top popped up on Wichita CL this AM but was gone in 30 minutes.

[swaggy853]

i have one for mine, came with a complete miata for $1300. needless to say i robbed every decent part off the car(and the spare turbo kit, motor, and tranny) and then sold it on CL for $1500.

[Stein]

Some pics of the "in process" subframe. I hacked it out to a 21" inside dimension. The front cross piece is 2.75" tall x 1.5" wide. I cut 1/4" off of a 1 1/2" square tube the full length and then welded it into an "8" cross section. I trimmed the front plate that carries the steering rack off and welded it to the original subframe and the tubing. A couple short pieces of 1 1/2" tubing coped in to match the angle of the front piece ties in the upright sections. I added .075" sheet to the sides that were cut out and a piece of 1/8x1 1/2" strip to the bottom to box it in. I added one section of plate to the outside to tie in the upper section and the plate on the bottom as well as the rear control arm mount to prevent twisting. I still need to weld some sections like the old cups that housed the motor mount to the side plate.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0654.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0655.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0657.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0658.jpg

[Stein]

Sorry, I haven't done any real cleanup yet so it doesn't look too good. When it's done I'll sandblast and probably powdercoat.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0659.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0660.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0661.jpg

[swaggy853]

that looks horrible!!!!

[Stein]

that looks horrible!!!!

**** off

Thanks

No pics, but I got my new Heddman hedders this week as well. Left side for 60's 289 Mustang, right side for Ranger V8 swap will fit well, miss the steering column, starter and the modified subframe. Summit will sell mixed parts. Only $218 shipped for the pair. Not bad for a specialty fit job and American made hedders.

Also got motor mounts for a 68-71 Dodge PU. Also known to work well. Rock Auto sells them for $5.35 each.

[swaggy853]

nice, good to see you are doing your reading on this project.

[LastPewterZ]

Much respect granted, very well put together thus far

[Johnny]

very nice indeed. and you are gona want to put an sfi balancer on it, the factory ones like to come apart if you rev them over 5000rpm very much

[EVOVIIIjohn]

Bump for update :)

[Stein]

Not much for updates. The first two weekends of November were deer season and my buddies and I process the deer at my place so I had to clean up the shop and put everything away.

I spent the last two weekends stripping the turbo kit, sways, coilovers, radiator off of the other 99, pulling the clutch and replacing it with the stock one. Sold the turbo kit and clutch, moving the suspension over to the other car. So, my DD Miata is slow again and handles like crap.

I pulled the 8.8 diff from the T-bird. It needs to go in for the diff/R&P upgrade.

I did bring the built motor back from Joplin MO last week so at least that's done. Also received my Energy Suspension full polyurethane bushing kit for the whole car, got my modified 5.0 harness back. Picked up a Quarterhorse for tuning.

Need to still pick up my 30lb injectors, Lightning MAF, TB and EGR spacer from Patrick.

I've been traveling a lot for work and that will continue until Christmas so no real work happening during the week. Gotta see all of my customers for the holidays, ya know.

[EVOVIIIjohn]

Ya i hear ha... props for the prompt update though. I am really excited to see this thing out when its done.

[regal403]

What do you sell?

Posted via Mobile Device

[Stein]

What do you sell?

Posted via Mobile Device

Sales Manager for Garner Industries. We do production CNC machining and plastic injection molding. www.garnerindustries.com

[Stein]

Ya i hear ha... props for the prompt update though. I am really excited to see this thing out when its done.

It will be done by spring, including paint. Winter is here and there's nothing else to do in the winter except live in the shop. Time will loosen up when the holidays are done and my major travels are finished. I'm usually only out of town 6-8 nights a week. I normally get about 40 hours a week in the shop in the winter, 7-11 weeknights and most of the weekend. I log a lot of 16 hour Satrudays and Sundays. I have an understanding wife.

[Burntz]

8 nights a week eh?

[Stein]

8 nights a week eh?

No, I average 6-8 nights a month during a normal part of the year. It's been almost all week for the last two weeks and the next two. I was actually going to head out tomorrow, but will likely wait until Wednesday. I don't mind driving in the snow, but the blowing snow makes normally rational people drive irrationally and I'm somewhat attached to this "living" thing.

[Hillbilly]

^pussys. It makes me drive around looking for the biggest drift.

[Stein]

^pussys. It makes me drive around looking for the biggest drift.

Yeah, but when I'm traveling for work I usually am driving 7-8 hours a day with two or three customer visits in the day. Scheduling appointments can be thrown out the window with weather like this. I generally get into three states in three days but when 8 hour drives turn into 12 and I see one customer a day, it isn't worth it.

Also, I have a Dodge Quad Cab 4x4 so I'm not worried about being able to get around. It's the other idiots that "forgot" how to drive in snow since last year.

[Stein]

Motor is in, at least as far as the mounting goes. I actually did it twice. The first time I had it all the way back to the power steering cooling loop. It fit well. But then I started looking at the trans and where the shifter fell and it was too far forward. It also looked like the water pump would infringe on the radiator's space.

So, I redid the mounts, bent the cooling loop down and was able to move the motor back another 1 1/4". That put the shifter right at the front edge of the hole which seems OK to work with. Sorry, the side view is before I moved it back and I didn't get another shot. Now, the left head is about 1 TO 1 1/2" from the firewall.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0737.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0739.jpg

After that I looked at the radiator. I have a 52mm Koyo that I carried over from the turbo car. With the motor moved back, all that I had to do is relocate the lower radiator mounts forward 2" and down 1/2". Basically, I moved the rear bolt hole to the front hole. Did a little trimming so everthing would clear and dropped it in. Slight bend on the stock upper mounting brackets and everything fit perfectly. Need to cut all of the stock Miata fan mounting points off of it yet. There is 1/4" gap from the end of the WP to the radiator. I could cut 1/8" or whatever protrudes through the pulley off of the tip of the pump shaft if I want another bit of clearance.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0749.jpg

Headers fit with no problem, other than the notching that I had to do on the passenger side. After moving it back, it was discovered that I wouldn't have had to notch as far forward, thus as tall but everything is boxed and I'm not about to do it again.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0744.jpg

Here's a shot that shows how busy the left mount is. All lines clear by 1/4", plenty of clearance on steering u-joint and collector of header. I have to replace the return line on the PS because it was kinked when The pump hung off of it while installing and dismounting the rack half a dozen times. I have another rack to rob parts off of.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0759.jpg

[millertime]

****ing sweet, I wanna ride when this is done, should scoot pretty good.

[Stein]

On the other forum we have been discussing the best way to fit the new FFR axles. The issue is the much larger diameter of the Ford CV joint interferes with the stock shock location. What we decided was going to be the easiest way was to relocate the lower and upper shock pockets. The uppers are held in place with three bolts and 10 -12 spot welds. Drill the welds and remove the bolts and slide it to the rear 2". That means moving the lower shock mounts to the rear 2" as well.

I decided that I'm tired of working on engine stuff, so I decided to tackle the lower control arms today. I had an idea of what I wanted to do but I didn't know if I could bend the bar to make the part so I whipped up a little brake die to fit into my HF 12 ton press.

When I first got the press, I did some rough matching of the press plates that came with it. This was needed to press out the bearings to retrieve the hubs. The press plates are cast, with all the attendant draft the comes with a rough casting. I clamped them together and then ground on them with my 7" angle grinder until they stood up straight and square. I then ground all of the half rounds and vees in them, never knowing when I might need them.

Well, I needed them. After I made the upper brake die, I tried a piece of 1/8" x 2" stock. No sweat. So, I figured, what the heck, I'll try a piece of 1/4" x 2". Still did it without any problems. Didn't even need the extension handle for the jack. The parts came out great.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0837.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0835.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0836.jpg

After that, I started on cutting the control arms. The new pieces were 3" wide inside, 1 1/2" long on the legs. I notched the control arms to make them fit tight on the bandsaw, cutting away the outer flange of the outer part of the shock pocket, right up to the outer wall of the pocket.

This would now become the inner wall of the shock pocket. It in essence moved the shock 1.9" to the rear. Close enough to the 2" that was bantered about here recently. The control arm was then trimmed back until the new "U" bracket made up a 1.8" inside dimension to match that of the old shock pocket. I then used a long bolt passed through the original holes and threaded into the original nut, clamped the bracket in place and then screwed out the bolt until the head hit the new bracket. I was able to trace around it to locate the new bolt hole. I drilled the hole and then clamped it up and welded it in place.

I still need to add a gusset plate on the bottom to tie it all together, but the way I cut it into the control arm there was a lot of surface area to weld to. Should work fine. I won't need to weld the nut in place as it will be easy to access it through the old shock pocket.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0838.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0839.jpg

[Johnny]

damn, looks good. I have those alternators waiting for ya.

[swaggy853]

thats sweet

[Stein]

Got the first upper shock mount drilled out today. I jut said screw it and drilled through. By the time I was completely through the first sheet the drill point was already poking through.

If anyone does this, here's a tip:

If you drill all the spots and it doesn't literally fall out, you either missed one or didn't get all of one of the spot welds. I got them all but when I was prying and wiggling it I could see where it was pivoting. After a bit of touch up with the die grinder and a carbide burr on a weld where the drill had walked, the pocket fell out. There is really no adhesive holding them in.

After it is out there is still work to do. Notching on the bottom flange and redrilling the holes for the three upper bolts. Unfortunately, when I moved it back 1.9" to match the bottom, I found that the spot weld spacing was roughly....1.9". You can see where several of the holes almost match up with the original adjacent holes. The only one in the face that hit good metal is the one to the left of the clamp that has my relocation dot on it. I'm going to pull it back off, weld up the holes in the rail and grind flush. That way I can rosette weld the old holes and it will look good.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0840.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0841.jpg

[Stein]

Completed the rear diff carrier today. I suspended the entire diff from the bottom. All mounts are attached to the base plate that bolts to the bottom of the subframe using the four holes that the subrame brace used to be connected to. The diff is mounted on two sets of Energy Suspension diff carrier bushings. They were $20.92 per set from Amazon.com with free shipping.

When I measured my other 99, the centerline of the axles shafts was 4.75" above the bottom plane of the subframe pads on the bottom so I carried that dinemsion through to this diff. It worked out that the front needed exactly 2.800" to make it work. The diff bushing and washer were .795" so a piece of 2" tubing was used, notched to clear the snout of the diff.

On the rear, I fabbed a bracket that also uses the same bushings. I mounted them far outboard to offset torque and to get close to the mounting bolts as my lower plate wasn't tied into the upper subframe like BF's mount. They also use a rigid mount welded directly to the frame, whereas I wanted the urethane mounts. The bracket is 1/8" x 2" stock, welded into an angle iron shape. I shimmed up the diff until the flange was perpendicular to the bottom of the plate and set the height there. It pretty much worked out that the bracket sitting on the urethane bumpers without the lower washer just cleared the outside part of the bracket on the diff cover. I had to grind some of the taper in the casting to get it under the bracket.

I then went back and welded some tabs on the bottom to stiffen up the corners where it mounts to the subframe. It ties in the front mount as well as the bolts for the rear mount. These were 1/4" x 2" stock. Final stiffening was to add two 1" angle iron braces running front to rear on the sides of the mounting plate. BF bends the plate up. I didn't have a means to do that so this is the compromise. The center section of the plate was cut out on my Chinese band saw. I had to cut in from the outside to cut out the hole and then I welded it up again.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0848.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0849.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0850.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0851.jpg

[Stein]

Here are some pics of the diff on the base plate, as well as installed in the subframe.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0847.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0846.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0845.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0843.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0842.jpg

[Kries]

This thing is gonna be ****ing bad ass when it's done. Props on the build!

[toom1h]

Very nice build. Wish the motor wasn't so gay :)

[Stein]

Very nice build. Wish the motor wasn't so gay :)

Gay motor for a gay car. What can I say?

Could have done LSx for a bit more $ and then be like everyone else trying to figure out how to hatchet a pair of headers enough to fit. It's one of the biggest stubling blocks. Even after dropping $500-900 for sets of supposedly "custom" headers, none seem to fit right.

One of the biggest problems for an LSx swap.

[Burntz]

Love what you're doing. The fabrication is amazing :)

[Stein]

Did a test fit on the rear end today. Pressed in new bearings and assembled the freshly broached hubs. First off was to see if there was any binding on the CV joints. No worries whatsoever. With the shafts horizontal (shortest possible, there is still 1" of travel in the joints so they are right in the middle of their range.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0852.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0853.jpg

After that I assembled the shocks with the relocated shock pocket. I moved mine back 1.9", as that was the spacing to work with the bottom pocket by moving the shock from the inside pocket to the outside.

Plenty of clearance on the CV boot, even with the large diameter Tein shock bodies.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0854.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0855.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0856.jpg

I did run into one problem, though. The FFR inner spline that goes into the diff would not engage the snap ring that retains it in the diff. I pulled it out and compared it to the straight axles that came with the diff. The distance from the end of the shaft to the inner edge of the grove was .500 whereas the other shafts was .420. So, I taped up the shaft to protect it and ground off .080" which ended up being the chamfered area so it made an easy guide. After that I rebeveled the shaft, took a nylon wheel to it to debur and it assembled fine.

That wasn't the end of my problems, though. When I went to remove the shaft I tried to pry it out like normal and it woudn't come. I forced it and it came out but without the snap ring. So, I got to pull everything out and open up the diff to remove two parts of broken snap ring.

Diff is back together and ready to reassemble. So, I think this puts the question of whether the FFR axles will work in our cars to rest.

Total cost in rear end,

$100 used 8.8 diff
$220 Axles
$140 Assembly of diff and gears
Borach hubs $80
Traction Lok and new 3.73's (free-came with donor in a box)
Misc steel that I had laying around

$540 total, plus probably 30 hours labor for everything.

Anyone have a part number for those snap rings?

[Stein]

Haven't posted much lately as no major visual progress has been made. Clutch and flywheel is on and trans is mated to motor. I mounted the Miata slave cylinder to the bellhousing and braced it in two places to prevent flexing. Clutch fork was drilled and radiused for the slave cylinder pushrod and a new pushrod and spherical bearing was made to change from cable pull to hydraulic action.

I needed to do a final test fit on the tranny in the tunnel before engine bay paint. I was surprised that the T5 fit with no issues. Engine bay has been completely stripped of any single thing mounted in it, scotch-brited four times with hot soapy water and a final wipe down with clean water in preparation for a color change. I set up my portable paint booth around the car and my painter was supposed to stop by Thursday to paint it but was sick. That killed working on the car for the weekend. He is coming this Friday which works as I will be out of town until Thursday night.

Color is being changed to 02-03 Miata SE Titanium. I have also bought new OEM front bumper, lip, headlights, mudguards, rear spoiler and side sills from an 01+ car to update it to the newer style. Plus, I got a factory hardtop. Sorry, no pics, but here is a pic of my inspiration. My car will look identical to this one, including the color, save the SE badge on the front fender. Maybe not everyones' cup of tea, but I drool over this car.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Miata/doppelganger.jpg

[ali]

that is a nice color

[EVOVIIIjohn]

Me likey!!!

[¿umop apisdn]

Those wheels are sweet. Prez used to have a set on his old Evo.

Build looks sweet as hell.

[Burntz]

this build makes me wet

[Hillbilly]

I am super impressed!

[millertime]

that miata looks great, can't wait to see this thing out and hurting butts.

[Stein]

Thanks all. I can't wait for it to be done and painted. I'm hoping by the end of May. :) I'm down here in Joplin and met up with the guy that I bought the motor from. We wnt for a ride in his Mustang just so I could get a feel for the sound of this motor. Cammed 5.0's really do sound tits.

[CamaroKITT]

nice

[89fox]

Wow, i am impressed with this build. I cant wait to see it out.

[Kries]

Bump.

[Stein]

Yeah, I've been lacking in updates. No visusal progress due to all tedious detail work so no new pics.

Fuel is done - all stainless flex from tank to fuel rail both ways and filters installed.

Most of the wiring is done. Just a few odds and ends and the alternator to hook up.

Alternator was moved by using a Marsh-type bracket and then flipping the alternator down where the smog pump was. An idler pulley was installed in the AC bracket to wrap the backside of the belt around the water pump pulley. A turnbuckle mounts to the bottom hole of the alternator for tensioning. Worked out really slick and looks clean. I bored out a Miata 4 ribhwaterpump pulley ID on the lathe to match the OD of the backsinde of the Ford belt drive pulley and welded it on behind the 6 rib. Then I fabbed up a bracket to mount the Miata PS pump to be driven off of that pulley. THe whole thing packaged nicely. It justifies a pic. Will have to get one.

Been working on the exhaust. Everything is being done by me with V-band clamps and mandrel bends. It's two 2 1/2" into a merge collector into one 3". Columbia River was backordered on all of my 3" U bends to finish so I have been on hold since yesterday. They shipped so I should have them Wednesday and I can finish the exhaust.

[regal403]

Should have sprung for the L67 FWD swap. Your car is going to be so slow now.

Posted via Mobile Device

[Stein]

Should have sprung for the L67 FWD swap. Your car is going to be so slow now.

Posted via Mobile Device


Yeah, I know. Been kicking myself for months now.

[Kries]

Thanks all. I can't wait for it to be done and painted. I'm hoping by the end of May.

Clock is ticking! :)

[roo]

:Thumb::Thumb:

[Stein]

OK a couple of pics. I explained it in the thread above.

Relocated alternator and added idler pulley and welded on a 4 rib pulley to drive the PS pump

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0883.jpg

Beginnings of the exhaust routing.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0886.jpg

Don't mind the temprary baling twine exhaust hanger. It's not all welded yet. I am a farm boy so I know if this was to be permanent, I'd have to use baling wire instead.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0885.jpg

Yes, I know the clock is ticking. It will be running by the end of May but may not be out of the paint shop by then.

[86Shelby]

Lookin good! Someone needs to take a picture of your smile immediately after the first shakedown drive.

[STOK5OH]

:lost:

[Stein]

Woot. Just ordered a pair of Sparco Sprint 5 seats and a Hard Dog M2 Hardcore Hardtop roll bar. So, the big bills are now done for the car, except for the paint shop bill.

Well, I may be buying a new set of 6UL wheels. The guy that's coming to look at my 99 Miata for sale this weekend may want them. Looking at trading my 99 with 6UL's straight across for an 09 Triumph Daytona 675 that's been track prepped. Stickys, aftermarket slipper clutch, CF Jardine header, rearsets, steering dampener. Bike has 2,500 miles and 200 on a factory new motor (failure in heat exchanger got water in the oil - replaced under warranty).

[Hibs]

Woot. Just ordered a pair of Sparco Sprint 5 seats and a Hard Dog M2 Hardcore Hardtop roll bar. So, the big bills are now done for the car, except for the paint shop bill.

Well, I may be buying a new set of 6UL wheels. The guy that's coming to look at my 99 Miata for sale this weekend may want them. Looking at trading my 99 with 6UL's straight across for an 09 Triumph Daytona 675 that's been track prepped. Stickys, aftermarket slipper clutch, CF Jardine header, rearsets, steering dampener. Bike has 2,500 miles and 200 on a factory new motor (failure in heat exchanger got water in the oil - replaced under warranty).

DO it. That's a nice bike.

[Stein]

DO it. That's a nice bike.

Hope to as long his GF likes one of the cars. He's going to be in Lincoln this weekend to see both of the Miatas. It's for a trackday car for his GF so she gets to pick which one. She has tracked her GSX-R6 but wants a car. If she picks the 91, I'll have to add some $ but still doing it. This way we both save sales tax.

[millertime]

now why can't I find a girl like that?

[Yngvar]

now why can't I find a girl like that?

I much rather have a chick that is just happy sitting on the side lines instead of having to work on two cars

[Stein]

Well, it's late but I just finished tack welding the entire exhaust. I accomplished my goal. I have a full 3" through the diff/subframe - no pinched down areas, no rubbing. It was a challenge. It didn't occur to me when I ordered, but the 3" 180* u-bends are 6" radius. They are HUGE. 15" outside to outside. So, I ended up having to cut a lot of pie cuts to shrink the radius in places but it worked out great. I included the huge Magnaflow that I had on my turbo car. It's a massive 6" x 12" oval, striaght through, 25" long. 3" in/out. Everything is V-banded. There are three 3" V-bands in the 3" section, before, inside and after the subframe so the entire exhaust can be taken apart without any issues. Two 2 1/2" V-bands on the headers so the entire exhaust can be dropped in less than 10 minutes. Man I can't wait to hear this thing. I must say the exhaust looks badass. Pics tomorrow.

[Stein]

Well, the guy with the Daytona came out and commited to buy one of my Miatas today. The only thing is he had promised the bike to another guy that was supposed to look at it two weeks ago. He showed up Thursday. He's trying to get a loan on it. The owner is going to give him until Monday. If he doesn't come up with the money, he's trading the bike for the Miata and my good set of 6UL wheels with RS3's. If he does come up with the money it will be a cash deal and then I get to start looking for a bike. I want the Daytona, plus we both save sales tax as it is a straight trade so he hopes the guy doesn't come up with the money either. We each will save about $560 in taxes.

[86Shelby]

Real tight mandrel bends come as donuts. You cut them to the angle you need and weld the inside seam. Describing them as $pendy is polite. But getting a 3" radius with 3" pipe isn't the easiest thing to do.
http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-569-SS/

[Stein]

Some pics of the exhaust. Just tacked in the pics but all finish welded today. Took me about 12 hours to finish weld, plus add O2 bungs, hangers, etc.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0887.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0893.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0898.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0889.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/HPIM0899.jpg

[swaggy853]

daddy likey

[kevin_s_08]

:jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jack off::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff:: jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jacko ff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff::jackoff:

[Grey03GT]

^**** must be raw.

[Cobra Commander]

Nice job on the exhaust.

[Stein]

Well, heading out to NY, NJ, PA and WV for a couple of days for work, but just got a call on the bike. The other guy is dicking him around so we are doing the trade - my Miata and wheels for his 09 Daytona 675.:woot:

Will update with pics hopefully this weekend!

[Trick]

your bike is missing a cylinder. :)

[regal403]

His bike has the right number of pistons, just ones that are too small and don't go up and down far enough.

Posted via Mobile Device

[Kries]

Update this *****!

[Stein]

Nothing to update, haven't touched the thing in a month since I got the bike, lol.

[Burntz]

****ing do itttt lol

[Stein]

Ya, now I'm in California for a week for vacation so I won't be touching either until maybe next Sunday.

[STOK5OH]

Forget the silly bike and get back to the Miatahhh.

[Stein]

Forget the silly bike and get back to the Miatahhh.

Actually, if I get back to it hard, you are just a couple of days away from a "come help me with my first startup because I'm a Ford n00b and I don't want to **** anything up" call...

[kevin_s_08]

moar.

[Trick]

Quit riding your bike and finish this.

[Kries]

I'm assuming March. Hell, it was supposed to be done by May......

[millertime]

He's either still in canada fishing, or just got back
Posted via Mobile Device

[Stein]

I'm assuming March. Hell, it was supposed to be done by May......

This is pretty accurate. Once the time change hits and it's dark after work, I'll be back to long hours in the shop as there won't be anything else to do. My last Miata that I did a complete resto on was painted in Feb and reassembled by March after a long winter. This should be the case again.

[KyleJ]

BUMP WORK ON THIS MOFO

[Trick]

Actually, if I get back to it hard, you are just a couple of days away from a "come help me with my first startup because I'm a Ford n00b and I don't want to **** anything up" call...

That was June, its now October...

[Stein]

Actually, if I get back to it hard, you are just a couple of days away from a "come help me with my first startup because I'm a Ford n00b and I don't want to **** anything up" call...


That was June, its now October...

Yeah, I have to stop being a BRF. Got a track day again this weekend :woot: Daylight savings will be upon us soon and it will be dark after I get off work. That always puts me back into "every night in the shop" mode, as there isn't anything else that can be done outside. Until then, I'm going to milk daylight for all that it is worth. I honestly haven't even touched the thing even once since getting the bike. That will change 11/7/10.

[STOK5OH]

My phone isn't ringing. :joe:

[Stein]

Deer hunting this weekend and next. I'm going to get to it. Really.

I have a short-ish list to finish. What I really need to do is to concentrate on getting the motor running instead of getting everything else done. After it fires off, that will be the incentive I need to finish. You WILL be getting a call soon. Hopefully you don't retire and move to Florida before it's done.:nervous:

[Hibs]

Deer hunting this weekend and next. I'm going to get to it. Really.

I have a short-ish list to finish. What I really need to do is to concentrate on getting the motor running instead of getting everything else done. After it fires off, that will be the incentive I need to finish. You WILL be getting a call soon. Hopefully you don't retire and move to Florida before it's done.:nervous:

hey, i'm in florida, pensacola beach is nice :lol:

[STOK5OH]

Deer hunting this weekend and next. I'm going to get to it. Really.

I have a short-ish list to finish. What I really need to do is to concentrate on getting the motor running instead of getting everything else done. After it fires off, that will be the incentive I need to finish. You WILL be getting a call soon. Hopefully you don't retire and move to Florida before it's done.:nervous:

I can't retire for at least 5 yrs after the wife finishes her PA program, and that's not for 5 yrs, so you're good yet for awhile. :lol:

[Stein]

OK, no pics, but got a lot done this weekend.

Found one lower rad hose that worked with some cutting, 1990 Chevy C1500 pickup with a 5.7. It had the 1.75 in, 1.5 out and the right bends. Still need to find a usable upper hose. New PRC aluminum dual pass radiator is in and mounted.

Finished up the wiring tonight, except for the VSS and wideband.

Added all fluids-oil, diff, trans, PS.

Pressed the bushings out and stripped and painted the front control arms. Need to tap for grease zerks and install Energy Suspension bushings and reinstall with new ball joints and tie rod ends.

Finally got my lokar dipstick in. Had to do some tweaking with a hammer on one tube on the header. It didn't occur to me when I got the left header, which was for a 67-69 289 Mustang, that they had the dipstick in the front cover so the header was too close to clear the dipstick without persuasion.

Welded up the power steering line that I nicked with the cutoff wheel a year ago. It might have been fine, but I didn't want to chance it, so a little TIG weld makes me feel better.

Lots of little stuff, but that's all there is left. Planning on first start within two weeks.

[Burntz]

WOOT

[millertime]

what shape hose do you need for the upper?

[KyleJ]

Give me some sizing info and a rough sketch of the shape and I'll see what I can do. I've got about a thousand rad hoses and tons of spare time at work.

[Stein]

what shape hose do you need for the upper?

Give me some sizing info and a rough sketch of the shape and I'll see what I can do. I've got about a thousand rad hoses and tons of spare time at work.

Thanks. I pored over rockauto.com again last night. They have great pics and list the sizes.

What I need is a 1.5" hose. If you are standing in front of the car, I need a hose that has an outlet leg that goes "back" 6", turns 90*, goes 6" and then bends "down" 45* then another 6". That's it. I can adjust that final length some as I have a 90* bend on the thermostat housing on the motor that goes into an inline radiator fill tube that is about 4" long.

I have a sketch, but I can't upload to my photobucket at work and can't attach the PDF scan, so PM me your email address and I'll send it to you.

Thanks for the help.

[c0z]

Its always a good feeling searching the wall o' hoses for random ones you can cut to fit, because you know you're almost done.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Stein]

because you know you're almost done.


That really hit me when I added oil, tranny, diff and PS fluids.

[Stein]

Pivot points of the front control arms drilled and tapped and grease zerks installed. Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings installed. Right front suspension installed with new ball joints, tie rod end and Tein Flex coilovers. Finishing the left side tonight and suspension will be all done.

[Stein]

Installed the m-tuned big brake kit on the front tonight with corrado rotors, Carbotech XP10 pads and Goodwin stainless brake line kit tonight. Rears tomorrow. I know that the XP10's are going to be noisy/dusty for the street, but if I don't like it I'll save them for the track and get another set of rotors and pads for the street. I had them and didn't have stockers, so I threw them on. I also installed a wilwood prop valve. Going to try XP10's on the front and rear. I read that most use 10's up front and 8's on the rear but that's on stock front rotors. I figured I can take advantage of the 10's on the rear because of the BBK up front and tweak the balance with the prop valve.

[millertime]

I know you said you plan on running mam once or twice, any chance of autox?

[Stein]

I know you said you plan on running mam once or twice, any chance of autox?

Unlikely, but maybe at the airport where it's a larger venue. I would have to run on the RS3's which will do fine on the track but will suck at autox. I ran RS3's once with the turbo car and even then couldn't put it down well with only about 200 whp.

[millertime]

big spoiler make car stick more.

[Stein]

big spoiler make car stick more.

Big spoiler. There is none. That's the way it is going to stay.

[millertime]

I have no problem with that.

[Stein]

Rear brakes and new rotors, Carboechs, stainless lines installed tonight. Not much, but a bit of time in the shop every day and this thing will see the light of day again.

[Stein]

Well, I ATTEMPTED first start today. Tidied up the last couple of things, primed the oil pump, dropped in the distributor (likely incorrectly) and decided it's worth an attempt. Turned on the key, heard the Walbro go and stop. Good so far. Turn the key to start and...nothing.

Long story short, I kept tracing wires and using the meter. Finally found a place where the PO had hacked in an alarm. When I cut it out I didn't realize that they hadn't just tapped into the line coming out of the key but had cut it and tapped in.

Fixed that and it turned over. I got a couple of faint pops out of it, one time it pop, pop, popped after letting off the key. Might be timing, might be the dizzy installed 180* off, might be something else. So, now it's up to Drew to diagnose, hopefully sometime this week if we can schedule it. I've hit my 5.0 knowledge limit a while ago. Should run by the weekend!

[KyleJ]

I've done the 180* off trick before.

[millertime]

get video!

[Stein]

get video!

No video, but I have Drew coming over Wednesday evening. I'm sure he will have it sorted out in no time. I'm looking forward to a point and "well, there's your problem". And the damn 180* thing. How can something that is a 50/50 percentage always seem to fall the wrong way?

[millertime]

because that's life

[Burntz]

how hard can it be? put a straw in the #1 cylinder, when its at its peak, install the distributor w/ the rotor facing the #1 wire?

[Stein]

how hard can it be? put a straw in the #1 cylinder, when its at its peak, install the distributor w/ the rotor facing the #1 wire?

That's the 50/50. It could be TDC on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. If it's wrong, it is exhaust, if it is right, it runs. If exhaust, run the crank around 360* and drop in again. No biggie.

[toom1h]

That's why you pull a valve cover off.

[86Shelby]

Here's a quick way to double check your ign timing to make sure it's not 180 out. Get a friend or ask your wife to help if needbe.
1. Pull all the spark plugs out.
2. Crank the engine over by hand with a ratchet, wrench whatever you can do easily.
3. Plug the #1 spark plug hole with your finger. Some people have good luck installing a spark plug and feeling the compression. Whichever works for you.
4. Crank by hand until you either have pressure on your finger or feel the compression while cranking engine. Now you're on the compression stroke.
5. Turn engine until the timing mark shows 10* BTDC.
6. Take distributor cap off and make sure rotor is pointing at #1 plug tower. Pull and reinstall if necessary.
7. Align pickup points in the distributor under the rotor so that they are pointing at each other dead-on and the rotor is pointing at #1 on cap. Remember to retighten distributor hold down.
8. Reassemble everything.
9. Smile as the engine roars to life.

[Lepa]

What if it doesn't roar to life, Ray?

[86Shelby]

Then something is not shaped correctly.

[Stein]

I had pulled the VC when I set it to TDC before I put the motor in so I was confident that it was right. Installed my LC1 and wired the narrowband output into the A9L. Went ahead and swapped the dizzy. No dice. Put it back to the way I had it, hit the car with a shot of ether, and it fired right up and settled into a nice idle. :woot::woot: Well, nice for a lumpy cam and 1.7 RR's. Pretty sweet to see it run after all this time. Let it idle and burn all of the paint off the headers with the door open. It got a bit lumpier as it warmed up but I didn't screw with anything. Still idled fine. Revved it just a bit. My homebrew exhaust and Magnaflow sound pretty sweet if I do say so myself. Only let it run for about 3-4 minutes. No leaks anywhere. Shut it down and called it a night.

[c0z]

Congrats! Can't wait to see that thing in action someday.

[KyleJ]

Fkin decent man.

[D1sclaimer]

Will it do wheelies?

[Stein]

Will it do wheelies?

Mebbe with moar tire. But, unlikely.

[Stein]

Finally got a couple of pics taken.

Front Suspension

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Miata/IMG_1461.jpg

Rear Suspension

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Miata/IMG_1460.jpg

Completed engine shot

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Miata/IMG_1462.jpg



I spent the evening doing something that I dreaded. I was very concerned about the hood fitting. Everyone that saw the motor and bent down to look across it kept saying the same thing. "It doesn't look like it will clear."

Well, I decided to throw on an old hail damaged hood and see what it would take to hack it to fit. If I had to work it over, I still had my good hood. I was surprised to see what little it took. When the hood is bolted down and fully latched it has at least 1/8" clearance or more when tested with clay on all of the tight areas. There is a boss on the front corner of the intake manifold that I may saw off. Then I will have 3/8" clearance everywhere. The one section over the throttle body had to have the reinforcement trimmed out. Only one glue spot so it was a quick two cuts with the cutoff wheel in the die grinder and the piece fell out.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/Miata/IMG_1469.jpg

[millertime]

congrats man! I can't wait to see this rolling around.

[Johnny]

very nice man!

[EVOVIIIjohn]

Awesome progress! Any idea what this weighs?

[Johnny]

a lot heavier in front now

[Stein]

Awesome progress! Any idea what this weighs?

Shooting for 2500 with full interior, etc. With a 5.0 with aluminum head swap you gain 100 lbs up front and 50 lbs in the rear with the 8.8 diff. The Miata motor is a LUMP. No AC, manual windows, may delete soft top and leave hard top on full time. It's in sad shape and another 37 lbs. I don't mind installing new ones - I've done three already, but I don't really care for convertibles. That said, with no AC I may want the vert. Or, I'll install the AC next winter. I just want it done now.

Called my painter to see if I can get it in within the next 2-3 weeks. I should be ready. Then it can start going together for good.

[Jesse]

Awesome work log! I just read the whole thing for the first time. Should be pretty fun.

[Stein]

I fabbed up some mounts for the FM sway bar that was carried over from the turbo car. I had to go 5" to clear the radiator hose. I had a set of Racing Beat endlinks that donated their ends and poly bushings. I replaced the stud with a shorty that just filled the threads on the links with one nut between them. I loctited the studs into one end of each link and had the jamb nut seat on the other. That shortened them a couple of inches from stock. With the 5" drop now the bar angles up about as much as it used to angle down. We will see how it works. After test assembly the lowering blocks were pulled off and painted. Will get pics when it's reassembled.

[millertime]

I saw this the other night and can confirm that not only does it exist, but it runs! and sounds pretty damn good, just really quiet.

[Stein]

Lamest update ever, but it's all that I have. Nothing left to do until it is painted so have just been waiting.

Finally got confirmation and the car goes to body/paint next week. Dan at Dynosport discovered that the cable was bad on my Quarterhorse. That's why I couldn't connect. That and it's an old version. They have had problems so Moates just replaces them. If it doesn't come in by Monday he is burning a chip with my base tune so at least it is mobile.

That is all.

[STOK5OH]

badass

[Kelvin]

checked it out today. FOUND AN EXHAUST LEAK.

looks really good, sounds even better.

[toom1h]

Lamest update ever, but it's all that I have. Nothing left to do until it is painted so have just been waiting.

Finally got confirmation and the car goes to body/paint next week. Dan at Dynosport discovered that the cable was bad on my Quarterhorse. That's why I couldn't connect. That and it's an old version. They have had problems so Moates just replaces them. If it doesn't come in by Monday he is burning a chip with my base tune so at least it is mobile.

That is all.

You can use my cable if you want. You has muh numba.

[Stein]

You can use my cable if you want. You has muh numba.

Dyno Dan hooked me up. My QH was the old 1.4 version so he sent it back to Moates and got them to a new 1.9 version one with a new cable. In the meantime he bought a Moates chip, burned my base tune on it and gave it to me to cover me until my QH is back. Excellent service. He's done all of this and I haven't paid him a penny. Even so, I told him I'd make it right when I pick up the QH Friday.

[GC8U]

Congrats man!

[Stein]

Car is off jackstands for the first time in 18 months. Moved forward and backward under its own power.

Took off half a day tomorrow to take it to Wahoo for the Sheriff inspection for out of state vehicles then dropping off at the body shop.:woot:

[93StockZ]

Congrats

[Burntz]

Bump

[Stein]

Bump

Ok, ok, I touched the car for the first time in two months yesterday. Burnts was supposed to be out there at 8:00 so I was in the shop at 7:00 getting the AC going and getting ready. Figured, might as well get some things done. Good thing as he didn't get there until 9:30.

Got the fenders on, headlight wiring done, did a bunch of trimming to allow the stock filler piece between the radiator/undertray and the bumper cover to fit. Even with a good aluminum radiator they are prone to running hot so proper ducting and sealing up the gaps around the radiator and bumper mouth are critical.

[Stein]

Justin was out again today so I got a 10 hour day in the shop. Undertray modified, bumper installed, Hard Dog roll bar installed, started on reinstalling interior. Mixed in was limited help with Justin but he pretty much handled his car today. Got his bastardized trans mount installed. That was a cluster****.

He's pushing me to get it done for the cruise. I said "no way" yesterday. Now, I'm not so sure...

[86Shelby]

11 full days till the cruise. :o)

[Stein]

11 full days till the cruise. :o)

Fak. I won't make it.

Gonna be a BRF. Might as well, I figured that I have put right at 100 miles on the bike all year.

[Burntz]

Justin was out again today so I got a 10 hour day in the shop. Undertray modified, bumper installed, Hard Dog roll bar installed, started on reinstalling interior. Mixed in was limited help with Justin but he pretty much handled his car today. Got his bastardized trans mount installed. That was a cluster****.

He's pushing me to get it done for the cruise. I said "no way" yesterday. Now, I'm not so sure...

Ohhh horseshit, you could have the miata done in 2 days like today. Carpet/dash/rear bumper/little things. If we repeat this weekend, next weekend, I bet it'd be road worthy :)

also, he lies, he helped me way more then he led on.

[regal403]

Bump?

[Burntz]

ya john about time to be back out in the shop eh??

[Stein]

Yeah, I was in the shop tonight, but I was fixing my loader after breaking it hauling firewood today. Soon. Really, really sooooonn.

[millertime]

how much firewood you got John? We've got a fireplace in our new place and would like some.

[Burntz]

Yeah, I was in the shop tonight, but I was fixing my loader after breaking it hauling firewood today. Soon. Really, really sooooonn.

you should finish the miata (I am so down to help), let me bring the 7 out, and help me finish all the piddly **** then help me start on body work ;)

[Stein]

Yeah, I was in the shop tonight, but I was fixing my loader after breaking it hauling firewood today. Soon. Really, really sooooonn.

you should finish the miata (I am so down to help), let me bring the 7 out, and help me finish all the piddly **** then help me start on body work ;)

I hesitate to see how helping you "finish all the piddly **** then help me start on body work" is going to get my car done.:joe:

[Jthod]

:lol:

[Burntz]

Yeah, I was in the shop tonight, but I was fixing my loader after breaking it hauling firewood today. Soon. Really, really sooooonn.

you should finish the miata (I am so down to help), let me bring the 7 out, and help me finish all the piddly **** then help me start on body work ;)

I hesitate to see how helping you "finish all the piddly **** then help me start on body work" is going to get my car done.:joe:

I meant afterrrrrrrrr yours is done. I dont give a ** about working on the rx7 right now haha, but I want to see that miata done, and am more then willing to lend a hand obviously.

[millertime]

I would be down to lend a hand as well in exchange for firewood.

[Stein]

Manufactured new shifter rod to relocate shifter centerline aft 3" to place shifter in center of shifter hole in tunnel tonight. Reinstalled dash. Fitted console to fit relocated shifter. Everything seems to fit and clear properly.

Starting on new brackets to mount a pair of Sparco Sprint V Race seats to factory sliders tomorrow.

[Stein]

Put it about 30 hours Fri/Sat/Sun. Got a lot accomplished.

Got the interior pretty much put back together. Dash, HVAC, wiring, door handles and panels are in. Still have trimming to do on the carpet/plastics to clear the roll bar.

Seat brackets are done. They were a ***** but I wanted to retain the sliders.

Finished up most of the exterior. Bumpers and lights installed.

I had such a huge pile in the other room of just stuff that needed to be reinstalled. It's a very small pile now. I'm close.

Unfortunately I leave tomorrow for four days to MO and AR and next week to Houston for four days so not a lot will be accomplished during the week.

It WILL be done in February, trailered to Lincoln for an alignment and then to Dan's for tuning.

I didn't take a lot of pics. I did shoot a couple of the seat brackets. Seats are still wrapped in plastic and haven't been installed. Easier to work in the car with them out but they were trial fit. I have my harnesses to install after I finish fitting the interior pieces around the roll bar.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/IMG-20120115-00017.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/IMG-20120115-00016.jpg

[Stein]

Finished the interior, cut rear seat belt tower plastics to clear the roll bar. I'm starting to look for things to do. The list is short. I still haven't hooked up the gauge cluster because I don't want to know what doesn't work yet. Obviously there are still odds and ends but not much.

I just remembered that I have to figure out how to hook up the Ford VSS to run the speedo. Previous Miatas were mechanical so there was an adapter to the cable to fit the T5. I have to adjust the pulses to either 2,000 or 4,000 per mile (can't remember) to make it work.

I need to install the Tupperware (factory body kit) on the car and some fender liners, finish out the trunk and seal up some things, machine the EGR spacer to angle the throttle body down a bit because it is too close to the hood. Just a handful of little things.

umm, woot

[Burntz]

****. Yes.

[Stein]

I pretty much ran out of odds and ends parts to bolt back onto the car today. I guess that means it is done. :lol: Just in time for me to leave town for a week.

Hopefully next weekend I can finish it up. I modified the EGR spacer today to angle down the throttle body for some additional hood clearance and JBwelded up the EGR hole just because I like a smooth bore and I couldn't see any reason for additional turbulence in that area. Probably good for .063 WHP.

I remembered that my seat harnesses were missing a set of mounting brackets so ordering them tonight and then the seats and harnesses can go in for good.

Still need to figure out the tach/VSS and I know that I don't have a speedo yet so I haven't put the cluster in. That isn't going to stop me from buttoning it up, getting an alignment and tune in Feb.

[toom1h]

I'm calling you out stein. Dyno day, you and I shall race! bring nitrous :)

[Stein]

Dyno day isn't until May? Might have my S-trim installed by then. No need for spray.

[Stein]

OH, yeah, I need to drop off my wheels and get my new tires installed. Four RS3's and a pair of ET Streets for stompin' DJ. And Justin.

[Burntz]

I'm not sure if any of this helps

http://www.mellens.net/mazda/mazda_miata_extra_manual/2001_wiring.pdf

I understand the Miata speedometer expects 4000 Pulses Per Mile (PPM) whereas the Mustang 5.0 VSS supplies 8000 PPM.

[Burntz]

oh and bringggggggggggg itttttttttttt john :)

[Stein]

oh and bringggggggggggg itttttttttttt john :)

You and your truckload of slow are welcome anytime.

[Stein]

I understand the Miata speedometer expects 4000 Pulses Per Mile (PPM) whereas the Mustang 5.0 VSS supplies 8000 PPM.


Yeah, this is the part I'm trying to figure out how to resolve.

[Jthod]

so it will read half actual speed? just use a sharpie on the gauge face.

[Burntz]

the mustang VSS outputs double, which I'm guessing would make the cluster read 2x the speed? Is there anyway to wire in a resistor to cut that signal in half? Me and electronics / wiring are not friends lol.

After some reading, it seems that you could possibly be able to modify the scaling in your ECU for it. I guess it depends whether it goes vss->ecm->gauges or vss->gauges->ecm

[D1sclaimer]

I think a SpeedoHealer or Yellow Box should work. Its used on cars to correct the speedo signal for gear swaps and also on bikes since some of their speedos tend to be innacurate from the factory. You "program" it to correct the signal since I believe its just a pulse.

http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

http://scienceofspeed.com/products/drivetrain_performance_products/S2000/Yellow_Box/

[Burntz]

ohh snaps, I did forget about that. Very common on bikes.

[D1sclaimer]

I have a never used v3 SpeedoHealer with universal harness that I would sell for a lot less than the newer V4 SpeedoHealers... The only difference is the v4 added silly features such as recalling your top speed and logging your average speed.

Just throwing that out there.

[Thunder]

Posted via Mobile Device

I will stomp albers, stein and dj. Get owned.

[Burntz]

hmmm, I have a feeling the rx7 will be a bit closer of a race then the trans am :)

[toom1h]

No.

[swaggy853]

Posted via Mobile Device

I will stomp albers, stein and dj. Get owned.

and then you will get your **** rocked by me.

[Johnny]

hmmm, I have a feeling the rx7 will be a bit closer of a race then the trans am :)

No it won't

What you are missing here is that your small car feels faster than it is.

Trust me, I would have sworn my swapped rabbit was a high 12 car, when in fact it ran low 14's lol

[toom1h]

It wouldn't really matter if it was faster.. :lol:

[Stein]

I have a never used v3 SpeedoHealer with universal harness that I would sell for a lot less than the newer V4 SpeedoHealers... The only difference is the v4 added silly features such as recalling your top speed and logging your average speed.

Just throwing that out there.

That might just work fine. It would save me having to play with drive gears in the T5 as well. PM me a price.

[Burntz]

hmmm, I have a feeling the rx7 will be a bit closer of a race then the trans am :)

No it won't

What you are missing here is that your small car feels faster than it is.

Trust me, I would have sworn my swapped rabbit was a high 12 car, when in fact it ran low 14's lol

Whether or not it will hit 12's or even 13's is meh, but adding some power and dropping the curb weight a 1000 lbs will definitely make it faster than the trans am lol.

[Thunder]

Posted via Mobile Device

I will stomp albers, stein and dj. Get owned.

and then you will get your **** rocked by me.

Well yeah, your car is the Yankees compared to my A's :lol:

Posted via Mobile Device

[toom1h]

Wait. So the yankees and the a's have the same players, but the stadium's are different?

[Stein]

lol

[Burntz]

Wait. So the yankees and the a's have the same players, but the stadium's are different?

I'm going to guess it was a reference to Moneyball, IE: travis has a much better budget for his car lol.

[Stein]

Wait. So the yankees and the a's have the same players, but the stadium's are different?

I'm going to guess it was a reference to Moneyball, IE: travis has a much better budget for his car lol.

No, it's a reference to having the same player (engine) in a different stadium (car).

[Burntz]

Wait. So the yankees and the a's have the same players, but the stadium's are different?

I'm going to guess it was a reference to Moneyball, IE: travis has a much better budget for his car lol.

No, it's a reference to having the same player (engine) in a different stadium (car).

That was the first thing I thought of, but its not entirely true. Shaggy's engine is built quite a bit more

[toom1h]

Uh it is?

[Thunder]

Posted via Mobile Device
Albers hit it on the head, but the stadium reference is another creative way to look at it. Lol

[Burntz]

As far as I remember? I thought thundy's was just a forged bottom with a decent cam? And that shaggy went hi comp, aftermarket heads, big cam, nitrous, etc

edit: Ninja'd, but yay I win

[Thunder]

Posted via Mobile Device
Pretty sure shaggy hit over 400whp n/a as well, on the shops dyno no less.

Regardless, I'm just stirring up the pot to anticipate a good season of racing

[toom1h]

For the record I know what Ahmad was referring to. I was being a smartass.

[Burntz]

uhhh huh :P

[toom1h]

:yawn:

[Stein]

Whole lotta slow in hurr. Including the OP.

[swaggy853]

As far as I remember? I thought thundy's was just a forged bottom with a decent cam? And that shaggy went hi comp, aftermarket heads, big cam, nitrous, etc

edit: Ninja'd, but yay I win

That's a preview of my mod list.

[Burntz]

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i232/xBurntzx/58f73e28.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i232/xBurntzx/9a410202.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i232/xBurntzx/c923364e.jpg

Shitty iPhones pics ha

[Johnny]

Looks great!

[Stein]

Thanks for posting. Going to get alignment and tune this/next week.

[Burntz]

I heard it run. Sexyyy

[toom1h]

Wow Stein looks great. I'll install a wider rear-view mirror for you.

[TurboTJ]

i would rock it!

but id have to lube up to slide in and roll out lol!!!

[96speedZ28]

More pics!

[Lt4TransAm]

Those seats look really comfy

[Jthod]

they look like a child's car set

[Stein]

More, better and outdoor pics to follow as soon as this weekend. I'm in town all week so hope to finish it this week. When I say "finish" as could be driven around. Some things still won't work and I have to buy some trim parts, etc. but done enough.

Yes, the seats are snug. Large people need not apply. They are just a drag on ET anyway.

Six new wheels, tires and drag radials in the truck for mount/balance tomorrow. If I can get the rest of the appearance package mounted tomorrow I may have it on it's own feet by Wednesday.

[millertime]

hey, if my fat ass can fit in them...

[Stein]

hey, if my fat ass can fit in them...

That was with them sitting on the floor. Now, climbing into them while they are in a car...


On another note, I think was sold the wrong Garage Vary front lip. It doesn't fit. I can only assume it is for an NA instead of an NB. Want to stop out to see if it fits your car?

[D1sclaimer]

I have those same HF 12 ton jack stands. Shits going nowhere on those things.

Will this be done for the dyno day?

[toom1h]

It better be.

[Burntz]

The car is just a few hours from being able to be driven, and he will have it dyno tuned and ready long before dyno day.

[toom1h]

Then we race!

[Stein]

Will this be done for the dyno day?

Should be done next week including dyno time.

[Stein]

Then we race!

:orly: You are going to be done in a week or two as well?

[Burntz]

I might be... :ohnoes:

[toom1h]

I was referring to dyno day. I am about a month or so out.

[Stein]

I might be... :ohnoes:

Cum get sum.

[revvin7]

Looks really good and those seats look very nice. That's going to be a very fun car!

[Hillbilly]

Looks slow and you will never get it finished or cruise it or beat DJ or Burntz. Just give it to me now so I can make something of it.

[toom1h]

A bbc does not belong in that. Period.

[Hillbilly]

Who said it would? I would tune it and drive the balls off of it.

[swaggy853]

its a 5.0, it has no balls.

[Hillbilly]

It is made of tissue and aluminum foil. it would be fast with a 5hp briggs. Posted via Mobile Device

[Stein]

Milestone first real drive tonight. I say real as in not driving it onto the trailer for paint while sitting on a bucket and holding the steering column up. Only went five miles but it was dark and I had no dash lights, gauges or turn signals, let alone plates or insurance so I didn't want to push it. Oh, and probably 5* positive camber on the RF tire. Everything just got bolted on and eyeballed. Going for an alignment next.

Nothing fell off, and I made it uneventfully. Some pics of the big day. The car is a mess. Been sitting in the shop for months since paint, let alone all of the new dust on the rear from my gravel road so it is very dirty.

After alignment I want to get a few drives on the clutch and then off to the dyno for tuning. It has a rough canned tune but it is pig rich.

Anyway, I'm happy.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/IMG-20120201-00023.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/IMG-20120201-00022.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/IMG-20120201-00025.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f357/68017/IMG-20120201-00024.jpg

[KyleJ]

Congrats!

[Burntz]

Helllllls yes. After seeing the sides on I think it does need that trunk spoiler, and it almost look like it needs bigger wheels haha. Can't wait to see it tuned, and cleaned all up.

[Jthod]

gawd that thing is going to be a blast

[Debo]

grats man! i bet it felt great. car looks pretty good, definitely needs bigger wheels or a little spoiler or something

[Burntz]

Maybe it just needs bigger tires :ohnoes:

[Stein]

grats man! i bet it felt great. car looks pretty good, definitely needs bigger wheels or a little spoiler or something

Are you kidding? I just bought those wheels. They are 10.3 lb 15 x 8 race wheels with brand new RS3's on them, lol NO way they are getting changed. I may drop the car a bit more on the coilovers. We will see.

I have a trunk spoiler already painted. Just didn't know if I wanted to drill the trunk. My chin spoiler, which is also painted, apparently is for 01-05 cars, even though the packaging said 99-00 so I'm hosed there. That ticked me off.