WL: 1993 RX7 Touring

[millertime]

figured I might as well start one.
No pictures yet, I can't find my digital camera.
Anyways, here's what's been done:
When I first bought the car the previous owner had already replaced all the vacuum hoses with silicone ones, and had removed the pre-cat and added a full 3 inch exhaust all the way back to the muffler, but he left the stock muffler on, ok whatever.
First thing I wanted to do was put an intake on it, because as anyone who has seen a FD's engine bay can attest to, there is no way the stock filter allows the turbos and motor to breathe properly. So I got the Trust (Greddy Japan) Airinx Intake, and put it on. Provided a LOT more room where the old black plastic box was and I immediately felt a slight increase in power.
Then I started to smell a burning clutch, so I ordered a new ACT stage 2 clutch kit with High Performance Pressure Plate. Pulled the trannsmission, and found out that it wasn't the clutch that was bad, it was the flywheel. So I ordered a new Fidanza lightweight unit, weighs 8.5 pounds (i think, which is about 13 lbs less than stock). At the same time I managed to pick up a nice set of Tokiko Illumina 5 way adjustable shocks with H&R springs, when done the car pulled better than I thought, just couldn't launch thanks to very little rotational mass/inertia.
So the car was slammed and at the time I thought I just needed new tires, exhuast and ECU, but no...
Found out a the previous owner also had new 99 spec turbos installed, which I just got back from getting rebuilt as one of the gaskets was cracked and leaking oil.
I've been buying up parts to put on when I got a chance and while the turbos were in Texas getting rebuilt here's what I did:
new 550 primaries and 850 secondaries
boost, afr, oil temp guages, all to be mounted in the center console above the stereo (will take pictures when completed)
HKS boost controller
clean out (from the leaking oil in the turbos) the entire intake tract, including flush the intercooler out.
replace the coolant hoses
and unfortuantely (or maybe fortunately) I had to pull the Tokiko/H&R set up because I also bought 18" ADR M classic rims from ryan (Chevelle7D2) with new tires (YES!) and they were too big and rubbed the fender. so I put the stock shocks/springs back on.

I think that's all that's been done for now.
Cliffs: Greddy Intake, boost controller, 3 in exhaust, guages, new flywheel and clutch, 18" ADR M classic rims, 8.5 wide front, 9.5 back (stock is 16 x 8 all around), replaced vacuum hoses and injectors.

Future plans (hopefully before summer is over/next winter):
Tein SS height adjustable coilovers
Apexi Power FC with Commander and Datalogit (ECU)
Stainless steel exhaust, thinking about going to Mr. Muffler for this since it's a passive system and he can give me a good deal
Unorthodox Full Pulley set
Greddy Intercooler pipe 3-piece set
Efini y-pipe
bigger stock mount intercooler

Way down the road plans:
Seibon Scoot style carbon fiber hood (maybe, maybe painted, idk)http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/seibonst.htm
Feed type 2 spoiler (i'll get the pic later) or 99 spec spoiler
99 spec front bumper
Either BNR stage 3 twin turbos (dual GT28 turbos) or single turbo, thinking a gt42
1600cc secondary injectors w/ fuel rail or bored out stock 850s running 1200/1300 cc
bosch/supra/RP/walboro fuel pump
HKS twinpower ignition
Front mount or v-mount intercooler
Koyo Radiator
dual oilcoolers
Meth injection kit
port of some size, dunno yet

Goals for first stage (next summer/winter)
350 hp, 15 psi, low 12s

Goals for second stage
400-425 hp, low 11s/high 10s

I think that's it for now.

[millertime]

couple things I forgot:
Sparco steering wheel is in
I got a new stereo, but I want to get a better one (I don't remember the brand I have now, I'll post up when I go check), I also want one 10 or 12 inch sub,
relocating battery and fuel filter to the trunk

More way down the road plans:
Big Brake kit (cross drilled and slotted rotors)
polished and maybe black powder coated engine bay
new paint
Volk CE28Ns, maybe

[srt-4_uk]

Why do you want twin GT28s or 1 GT42 and only want 400ish HP? A single GT3071R or GT30R will get you there for less money than the twins and less lag than the single GT40

[millertime]

Why do you want twin GT28s or 1 GT42 and only want 400ish HP? A single GT3071R or GT30R will get you there for less money than the twins and less lag than the single GT40

the twins are a sequential ball bearing unit that is a really cool idea, and my power doesn't even start to show itself till 4k so i'm so used to lag anyways it doesn't bother me.

i'll post a better explanation in a bit

[millertime]

the BNR's aren't exactly true gt28s, they are the rough equivalent of two GT28s
and with the GT 40 I could have a safer lower boost tune and easily have 400, I could run a smaller GT35 (which is another option) but the turbo would be closer to it's peak, and price is all about the same, I could get 500+ from a T04Z, but I don't want or need that much power, plus the spool is still too much.

Looking around a bit I've found a few better deals on the GT35s, but the 40s would allow me to have a much better peak power if I wanted to tune it that way.

[JustinGSX]

His point was that those turbos are major overkill for your goals, not that they're "not cool". A GT42 is a BIG turbo and I wouldn't choose it unless your planning on at least 600hp someday.

But I know goals are always broken.

[srt-4_uk]

His point was that those turbos are major overkill for your goals, not that they're "not cool". A GT42 is a BIG turbo and I wouldn't choose it unless your planning on at least 600hp someday.

But I know goals are always broken.

Exactly

[millertime]

yeah, i looked at it again and now I realize that the biggest turbo I'll want is the T04Z which is still good for over 500, which is way too much, so i'm looking into the GT30 or GT35 series turbos, but the BNRs are still an option, but I've got some time to make up my mind as that's at least a few years down the road

[Coupelx]

sooo no wideband?

fail.

[srt-4_uk]

yeah, i looked at it again and now I realize that the biggest turbo I'll want is the T04Z which is still good for over 500, which is way too much, so i'm looking into the GT30 or GT35 series turbos, but the BNRs are still an option, but I've got some time to make up my mind as that's at least a few years down the road

T04Z turbos are ****ing massive as well. A GT35 is good for over 500 and a GT30 will hit 500 on race and a good tune.
Also look into the Borg Warner S200 series.

[matt]

so how bad did it rub with those wheels? was it the height? width?

[millertime]

so how bad did it rub with those wheels? was it the height? width?

little of both, the back was pretty bad, the front not so much.

and the apexi PFC commander has a afr display, it's also one of the gauges i'm getting installed, so i've got that covered.

and thanks for the tip on the s200 series turbos, i'll look into them

[swaggy853]

its not always about low or high boost, its about hp.

[DSMMIKE]

how much does you car weigh? cuz with 350hp youll definaly see 11s if you can drive.....

[BOORAH]

I think it was like 2800.
Idr for sure, it was a 100 more than mine I think.

[swaggy853]

how much does you car weigh? cuz with 350hp youll definaly see 11s if you can drive.....

uh, turbovert had ~325 iirc...and he was a car and a half ahead of me from a roll....thats high 12s.

[matt]

so how bad did it rub with those wheels? was it the height? width?

little of both, the back was pretty bad, the front not so much.

and the apexi PFC commander has a afr display, it's also one of the gauges i'm getting installed, so i've got that covered.

and thanks for the tip on the s200 series turbos, i'll look into them

you couldnt have rolled the fenders? dont be a weenie, make the fit of the wheels FIT if you know what I mean;. sorry ImaZ alittle frunk

[millertime]

skyler's convertible FC is supposed to weight about 3300, the FD weighed like 2880, like 40 pounds more than bugra's 240, or there abouts, and that was with a LOT of extra stuff in it and a full tank of gas. The normal time for a 350 hp FD is high 11s low 12s, a few people have managed high 10s on 350, but that's rare.

I want to keep the turbos in their most efficient range and also minimize wear and tear on them. That's where the meth kit comes in too, lower boost along with the meth kit will allow me to run slightly leaner afr's (low 13s instead of low 11s which are recommended for turbo rotaries and the meth will help decrease temperatures) so I can get better gas mileage and more power.

and it's ok matt... I wish I could get drunk at the moment.

[DSMMIKE]

damn i see mid 360ish hp dsms all over the mid high 11s. its all depends on the drive though because theres some in the mid 12s too

[BOORAH]

skyler's convertible FC is supposed to weight about 3300, the FD weighed like 2880, like 40 pounds more than bugra's 240, or there abouts, and that was with a LOT of extra stuff in it and a full tank of gas. The normal time for a 350 hp FD is high 11s low 12s, a few people have managed high 10s on 350, but that's rare.

I want to keep the turbos in their most efficient range and also minimize wear and tear on them. That's where the meth kit comes in too, lower boost along with the meth kit will allow me to run slightly leaner afr's (low 13s instead of low 11s which are recommended for turbo rotaries and the meth will help decrease temperatures) so I can get better gas mileage and more power.

and it's ok matt... I wish I could get drunk at the moment.

Yeah mine weighed 2710ish after I took all the extra coilovers and stuff out.

[millertime]

update
as many of you know, I'm in need of a rebuild, I'm probably gonna get the atkins rotary rebuild kit and try it myself with the help of some friends.

I'm also getting the greddy elbow, and I really need some coilovers before it's street worthy

2 grand, here I come.

[Burntz]

**** the rotary, ls1 ftw

[cole]

sounds like a waste of 2k

[KyleJ]

Good luck.

[ali]

sounds like a waste of 2k

[brando1985]

Unless you are very knowledgeable on the 13B-REW or have a lot of discretionary income, I suggest you at LEAST send the core itself off for rebuild. With the high cost of rotary rebuild components, you need to have a clear understanding what you are doing. It's not just a simple matter of putting new apex seals in and slapping some coolant seals into the rotor housings. You need to check tolerances and be able to distinguish what's reuseable and what's not. Further, if you buy a rebuilt core from a reputable shop, they will offer a warranty. That way, if they screwed up, it's on them instead of you.

Just my .02.

Brando

[Kelvin]

sweet viper in your sig. you gay? i suck ****

[millertime]

Unless you are very knowledgeable on the 13B-REW or have a lot of discretionary income, I suggest you at LEAST send the core itself off for rebuild. With the high cost of rotary rebuild components, you need to have a clear understanding what you are doing. It's not just a simple matter of putting new apex seals in and slapping some coolant seals into the rotor housings. You need to check tolerances and be able to distinguish what's reuseable and what's not. Further, if you buy a rebuilt core from a reputable shop, they will offer a warranty. That way, if they screwed up, it's on them instead of you.

Just my .02.

Brando

hmm... thanks, I've been looking at the rx7store rebuilds and thought about it, but yeah, i'm contemplating things as it is.

If I had enough discretionary income to do a swap, I would be looking at a 20B swap before an LS1

sweet viper in your sig. you gay? i suck ****

what?

[Grey03GT]

Some kid in my auto tech class is putting a 20B in his FC (I think?)

[millertime]

Some kid in my auto tech class is putting a 20B in his FC (I think?)

uh huh... sure he is.

I'll believe it when I see it, the rebuilt and ported long block alone costs 7600
a long block alone, without a rebuild is 3200 in questionable condition. That doesn't include any sort of fuel system, ecu, supporting parts, etc...

[matt]

no he's not. he is full of ****...

[matt]

post blocked

[millertime]

:D

[millertime]

well since I already told a guy on ness I would buy his greddy elbow, i sent him payment today, 90 dollars, not that big of a deal.

I've decided I'm gonna attempt the rebuild, and if I blow it, I blow it, and I'll persue another means of restoring the car. I'm going with the atkins rotary rebuild kit version C with no apex seals, or the "master rebuild kit"
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/home.php?cat=628
any input on which one?

with the ALS "unbreakable seals." I've heard some very good things about these seals and their ability to withstand detonation. One guy has been running them on 25+ psi all last season, and he blew and the seals were reusable (he has them in his current car).

[¿umop apisdn]

You're wasting time. Sell the damn elbow and put a real motor in it!

[millertime]

shut it logan, the rebuild is less than an LS1 short block

[srt-4_uk]

so start saving now.

[¿umop apisdn]

and it's only going to blow up again eventually...

[millertime]

I realize that, and I am

[bheiman]

Unless you are very knowledgeable on the 13B-REW or have a lot of discretionary income, I suggest you at LEAST send the core itself off for rebuild. With the high cost of rotary rebuild components, you need to have a clear understanding what you are doing. It's not just a simple matter of putting new apex seals in and slapping some coolant seals into the rotor housings. You need to check tolerances and be able to distinguish what's reuseable and what's not. Further, if you buy a rebuilt core from a reputable shop, they will offer a warranty. That way, if they screwed up, it's on them instead of you.

Just my .02.

Brando


Or just have fitz help...

i helped (or more so watched) fitz on his last rebuild, when i took apart my motor he helped on labeling everything and whatnot

the front hub would not come of mine, even with a 650 ft lb impact

we had to make a tool to get it off
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5905/engineremoval013fc5.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=engineremoval013fc5.jpg)

luckily we had a spare post from a stop sign laying around

[srt-4_uk]

What a cute little engine. Does it come in Men's?

[Enfini-fc]

shut it logan, the rebuild is less than an LS1 short block

the rebuild kit, not housing or rotors if you need them, example: s4 turbo is about 500 for a new rotor and 500 for a housing/intermediate plate. If you have a apex seal fail
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/CalHayes/Rx7/2nd%20engine/100_1936.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/CalHayes/Rx7/2nd%20engine/100_1935.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/CalHayes/Rx7/2nd%20engine/100_1935.jpg
rotor trashed/housing is trashed your now just shy 3k for parts just to rebuild it, now you just add time or some one elses time, yep definitely more expensive then a ls1 short block, what happens if you screw up and it comes apart again in a week or 6 months, shame on yourself? more like need a big super kick in the ass.

not saying that i would ever ever rip the soul out of my car. you need to understand and be full aware of your options. Swaped rx7s arn't bad, there not my cup-o-tea, but driving your car is much more fun then; i think I want to drive it to my grandmas house(its a example), but i need to barrow my brothers/somebody's car because if the engine goes, I'm **** out of luck being out side of city limits.

but if you didn't shell a apex seal, your good just rebuild it :) go rotary brother...!!ZING!!

[swaggy853]

What a cute little engine. Does it come in Men's?

hahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahaha hahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahaha hhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahah ahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahah ahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahha hahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahaha hahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahaha hahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahah ahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahah ahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahah hahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahaha hahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahaha hahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhah ahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahah ahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahhaha

repped

[millertime]

it wasn't an apex seal which is why the rebuild is so tempting.
But then again, the LS1 is very tempting too, i'm looking into it right now actually, I even found a longblock for 1000

[swaggy853]

it wasn't an apex seal which is why the rebuild is so tempting.
But then again, the LS1 is very tempting too, i'm looking into it right now actually, I even found a longblock for 1000

6.0 the damn thing and get it over with.

[srt-4_uk]

it wasn't an apex seal which is why the rebuild is so tempting.
But then again, the LS1 is very tempting too, i'm looking into it right now actually, I even found a longblock for 1000

6.0 the damn thing and get it over with.

[millertime]

LS2?
right?

[Rex_Driver951]

dooooooooooooooooo itttt












you won't do it

[C.J.]

LS2?
right?

wrong...search LQ9

its a iron block/aluminum head bigger LS1 out of truck

swap to LS2 intake manifold and a big cam shaft you will be making 430+ whp

[millertime]

6.0 = LS2
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-626-ls2-60l.aspx

and I might do it

[C.J.]

6.0 = LS2
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-626-ls2-60l.aspx

and I might do it

no no no....you are worried about money

buy a complete LQ9 for under 1000 dollars....COMPLETE.

it is an LSx series motor...that people dont realize that b/c they are noobs.

[millertime]

6.0 = LS2
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-626-ls2-60l.aspx

and I might do it

no no no....you are worried about money

buy a complete LQ9 for under 1000 dollars....COMPLETE.

it is an LSx series motor...that people dont realize that b/c they are noobs.

just searched, thanks for that cj, now I need to find a good t56, as this will be a street car I want a manual

[C.J.]

6.0 = LS2
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-626-ls2-60l.aspx

and I might do it

no no no....you are worried about money

buy a complete LQ9 for under 1000 dollars....COMPLETE.

it is an LSx series motor...that people dont realize that b/c they are noobs.

just searched, thanks for that cj, now I need to find a good t56, as this will be a street car I want a manual

ya that will cost more than the entire motor.

but yeah....500 whp build list

LQ9 - $1000
Ls2 intake manifold - $150
L92 heads - $1000
Texas Speed MS4 cam - $400

[srt-4_uk]

What about pushrods? springs?

[C.J.]

What about pushrods? springs?

those L92 heads are complete for $1000

but yeah you would need hardened push rods and now that I think about it being as the Magic Stick 4 cam has some crazy lift you would probably need dual valvesprings

but for $3000 budget I would say its more than doable, plus you wouldnt have to buy those heads and use that money for a transmisison.

[millertime]

6.0 = LS2
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-626-ls2-60l.aspx

and I might do it

no no no....you are worried about money

buy a complete LQ9 for under 1000 dollars....COMPLETE.

it is an LSx series motor...that people dont realize that b/c they are noobs.

just searched, thanks for that cj, now I need to find a good t56, as this will be a street car I want a manual

ya that will cost more than the entire motor.

but yeah....500 whp build list

LQ9 - $1000
Ls2 intake manifold - $150
L92 heads - $1000
Texas Speed MS4 cam - $400

2500 dollar FD swap kit... the one thing nobody thinks about.

[¿umop apisdn]

If you go with the 13B rebuild kit and not LSx, you're a fool. Like this:
http://www.bruceongames.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/fool.gif

[C.J.]

2500 dollar FD swap kit... the one thing nobody thinks about.

well ask Ryan or Brando...are they using those kits? I wouldn't be surprised if they had some whody special.

[millertime]

2500 dollar FD swap kit... the one thing nobody thinks about.

well ask Ryan or Brando...are they using those kits? I wouldn't be surprised if they had some whody special.

ok, i'm gonna try and find some dimensions and get some help from a friend who has a good amount of welding experience and works out at Lincoln Trucking. We'll see when i get all the info and start buying parts once the motor is out and I can sell stuff.

also, I would rather have to **** with the hood than mess with bump steer, and I know when I talked to ryan he said they do something for bump steer instead of the hood.

[c0z]

I would strongly advise just buying a kit and getting the bumpsteer ends, it's not worth making a custom hood.

[millertime]

I would strongly advise just buying a kit and getting the bumpsteer ends, it's not worth making a custom hood.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/seibonst.htm
?
and buying the whole kit or just the bumpsteer part?

[sweatygrundle]

I would strongly advise just buying a kit and getting the bumpsteer ends, it's not worth making a custom hood.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/seibonst.htm
?
and buying the whole kit or just the bumpsteer part?

icky looking hood. keep the appearance stock. Mazda got it rite with that car. cept i would go with the flip up headlite delete.

[millertime]

I would strongly advise just buying a kit and getting the bumpsteer ends, it's not worth making a custom hood.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/seibonst.htm
?
and buying the whole kit or just the bumpsteer part?

icky looking hood. keep the appearance stock. Mazda got it rite with that car. cept i would go with the flip up headlite delete.

I really like the seibon scoot style hood, and I'm looking for some sleek style headlights, but that'll come AFTER the rebuild/swap.

[c0z]

hell naw, flip ups 4 lyf

[Grey03GT]

There's a complete LS1/T56 on Cl for $2500
edit found the link
http://lincoln.craigslist.org/pts/1021428724.html

[millertime]

hell naw, flip ups 4 lyf

and I really like the looks of the flip ups when they're down, it's such a clean look.

[millertime]

There's a complete LS1/T56 on Cl for $2500
edit found the link
http://lincoln.craigslist.org/pts/1021428724.html

finding the motor and tranny isn't a problem, it's the rest of the stuff that sux ass.

[swaggy853]

There's a complete LS1/T56 on Cl for $2500
edit found the link
http://lincoln.craigslist.org/pts/1021428724.html

thats an auto, not a t56, ****tard.

[brando1985]

There's a complete LS1/T56 on Cl for $2500
edit found the link
http://lincoln.craigslist.org/pts/1021428724.html

thats an auto, not a t56, ****tard.

No ****, there are a bunch of ****in idiots in this thread!

What exactly IS your budget. You've never stated what the maximum limits of your credit cards are.

Here's your motivation:

http://www.v8rx7forum.com/hall-fame/40258-ls1-fd-progress-not-using-kit-56k-no.html

[swaggy853]

im planning on spending $10k on the miata...after i sell the stock drivetrain.

[¿umop apisdn]

There's a complete LS1/T56 on Cl for $2500
edit found the link
http://lincoln.craigslist.org/pts/1021428724.html

Even I knew that was an auto tranny...

[millertime]

i'm hoping to keep my own spending below 5k, but that's after I sell:
greddy elbow
greddy FMIC
greddy intake
short block
99 spec turbos
tranny w/o clutch flywheel
clutch
flywheel

I'm hoping to keep it below 3k of my own money after selling those parts

and I didn't even look at that CL add,

[Grey03GT]

Yeah i failed at reading.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c248/Z32300ZX/FAIL.jpg

[millertime]

Yeah i failed at reading.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c248/Z32300ZX/FAIL.jpg

OUCH!

[brando1985]

You will not do a swap for anything less than 5-7k. There are a lot of things you need that are not on your list.

[millertime]

here's what I'm hoping to sell the stuff for:
greddy elbow: 90 dollars
greddy FMIC: 600 dollars
greddy intake: 200 dollars
short block: 1000 dollars
99 spec turbos: 1200 dollars
tranny w/o clutch flywheel: 300 dollars
clutch and pressure plate: 300 dollars
flywheel and counterweight: 200 dollars
electronic boost controller: 100 dollars
3 bar: 75 dollars
extra primary injectors: 100 dollars
extra secondary injectors: 100 dollars
stock shocks/springs: 100 dollars
tokiko H&R combo: 600 dollars
stock intake, intercooler, other various stuff I have.

[millertime]

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
after reading rebuild threads I really want to do a rebuild now!!!!!!!!!
****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I really want to try the rebuild and maybe port it while I'm at it, and I was gonna do a LOT of other things too while I had the motor out, braided fuel lines, relocate the battery and fuel filter, might as well do a fuel pump and bigger injectors, apexi pfc, pull the power steering, air pump, and abs, ignition and spark plugs, boost controller and guages, basically if I do a rebuild, it's gonna be down for a while, so I want to do everything I can.

[¿umop apisdn]

****ING QUIT IT!

[millertime]

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!

seriously, i need to just make a decision and stick with it, I'm probably gonna take an extended leave of absence from scr and ness and just read as much as I can on rebuilds and swaps. I know once I start one way or the other, i'll stick with it, that's who I am, but starting is the problem.

[¿umop apisdn]

JUST ****ING PUT A V8 IN IT! I DON'T CARE IF IT'S THE SHO V8!!!

[millertime]

JUST ****ING PUT A V8 IN IT! I DON'T CARE IF IT'S THE SHO V8!!!

looked, the modular 32v won't fit

[¿umop apisdn]

? it's a 3.4 liter...

[millertime]

? it's a 3.4 liter...

eh, too small
like your ***** last night
seriously, it made me sad

[¿umop apisdn]

? it's a 3.4 liter...

eh, too small
like your ***** last night
seriously, it made me sad

Way to small.
The v8 from the F40 is a 2.9L.

[millertime]

? it's a 3.4 liter...

eh, too small
like your ***** last night
seriously, it made me sad

Way to small.
The v8 from the F40 is a 2.9L.

HOLY ****!
but it's boosted isn't it?

[KyleJ]

ls1

[¿umop apisdn]

? it's a 3.4 liter...

eh, too small
like your ***** last night
seriously, it made me sad

Way to small.
The v8 from the F40 is a 2.9L.

HOLY ****!
but it's boosted isn't it?

Yes, it also weighs 2400 pounds.

[brando1985]

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/engine_prices.html

[Preston]

? it's a 3.4 liter...

eh, too small
like your ***** last night
seriously, it made me sad

? it's a 3.4 liter...

eh, too small
like your ***** last night
seriously, it made me sad

Way to small.
The v8 from the F40 is a 2.9L.

Pwnt.

[millertime]

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/engine_prices.html

:eek:
thank you much man!

[brando1985]

You're welcome.

[bheiman]

lmao 100$ says he sticks with the rotary

[¿umop apisdn]

lmao 100$ says he sticks with the rotary

good post

[millertime]

lmao 100$ says he sticks with the rotary

anyone else wanna take him up on this bet?
i haven't TOTALLY made up my mind yet, but I'll post what I'm probably gonna do.

Bheiman what's your sn on ness?

[KyleJ]

Your a rotor-holic-boost-junkie.

His name is Gigantor on NESS.

[bheiman]

lmao 100$ says he sticks with the rotary

anyone else wanna take him up on this bet?
i haven't TOTALLY made up my mind yet, but I'll post what I'm probably gonna do.

Bheiman what's your sn on ness?

Ya as kyle said gigantor dumbass lol moderator of the mazda section, you bought my intercooler... ring a bell

(i know i didnt need to go into all that, lol just thought it was funny ya didnt know it was me lol)


a while ago this guy dan thought itd be funny to have my name changed so he called one of the admins at a party and got it changed lol

[millertime]

lmao 100$ says he sticks with the rotary

anyone else wanna take him up on this bet?
i haven't TOTALLY made up my mind yet, but I'll post what I'm probably gonna do.

Bheiman what's your sn on ness?

Ya as kyle said gigantor dumbass lol moderator of the mazda section


a while ago this guy dan thought itd be funny to have my name changed so he called one of the admins at a party and got it changed lol

ha ha, and yes I am a rotro-holic boost-junkie. too bad I can't get much of a fix right now... :(

[bheiman]

haha yea its been 2 years and 2 months for me :cry:

[millertime]

haha yea its been 2 years and 2 months for me :cry:

i told you, fix it and do little things one at a time, I'm looking for a garage so I can pull my motor soon and get working.

[bheiman]

yea, i would do that but ive already got everything taken off the car, might as well do the wide body, body work paint and roll cage while im there...

but i probobly will slap it together once thats done with a cheap single turbo to get it running on megasquirt first before i go any further with my crazy ideas

[millertime]

little update, got the FMIC, efini y-pipe in, just ordered the walbro pump and an air-pump delete idler pulley, only thing left are the rebuild kit and an apexi-pfc standalone ecu, but the rebuild kit won't be ordered until I find a PFC for a good price and get a garage with enough room to work in

[BOORAH]

This thing have pistons yet?

[kevin_s_08]

i know this was probably discussed sometime but im new to scr and just read the whole thread....but i assume this means your sticking with the rotary?

[¿umop apisdn]

i know this was probably discussed sometime but im new to scr and just read the whole thread....but i assume this means your sticking with the rotary?

Unfortunately, yes.

[kevin_s_08]

i know where there is a super badass sicc fast 390 for sale cheap. no lsx but i hear it'll rape lsx's any day of the week? want me to get the contact info for you?

[millertime]

not funny, the 390 and LSx jokes are played out now

[¿umop apisdn]

But seriously. Put an LS something in it. Rotaries are for the gays.

[toom1h]

Or a 350

[millertime]

PFC and commander ordered, shipped tomorrow, paid 670 for it, retail is 1000

also we just signed for a house, the only problem is we can't move in until June 1st.